Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translate : Lorien Chan
Continuing with the designer interviews, it is very impressive to hear that they also have a social conscious! From one of our favorite collections, Ms. Jasmine Leung, fashion designer, states, “During these 4 years of study in BA fashion, I realized how damaging fashion and garment-making is to the world. We, as the new generation of fashion creators, need to take action to make a change. Designing a sustainable fashion collection and eventually establishing a sustainable fashion brand are my goals.”
Read Part 3, of inspirations, fashion designer favorites, and future plans! A heady mix of, ‘the simple life’, Zero Waste, love bonds, and America sports references.
繼續進行設計師訪談，設計師對社會問題的意識令人意想不到！ 其中一個我們最喜歡的系列設計師Jasmine Leung說：「在BA時尚的這四年研究中，我意識到時裝和製衣業對環境多麼有害。我們作為新一代時裝創造者需要採取行動作出改變。設計可持續發展的時裝系列並最終建立可持續發展的時尚品牌是我的目標。」
第一部份的訪談 / For a show review, head to Part 1
6. Liu Tsz Kwan, Violet // ‘Turn Back The Clock!’ Collection
SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎？你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Violet : This design piece is, ‘turning back the clock’ to the good old times. Inspired by the scenario of people drying clothes everywhere in an old-style estate. This outfit is just like the cover of a quilt, sheet, and curtain. It’s warm and full of human touch. Moreover, the design uses graphics and patterns to capture the simple scenarios of people’s daily lives. I also used the spray and acrylic colors to create word patterns on the placket.
就像坐着時光機，這個設計把時間倒轉回昔日的美好時光，靈感來自舊式屋村中，人們晾曬衣物的場景，穿上這件衣服就像被棉被，床單和窗簾蓋着一樣，帶溫暖而富有人情味。此外，設計使用了圖案來影射人們日常生活中的簡單場景，也使用了顏色噴霧模仿在屋村牆上的噴漆禁止標誌來創作了文字圖案。
SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是？
Violet : My favorite fashion designer is a Malaysia based fashion designer called Moto Guo. I really appreciate his strange and playful designs. He has a unique style, and he knows how to create a new meaning of beauty, even if it is completely different from others.
我最喜歡的時裝設計師是馬來西亞的本土設計師- Moto Guo。我非常欣賞他奇特俏皮又帶古怪的設計，以及他獨特的風格，他也帶給人新的審美定義。
SP : What’s next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃？
Violet : After graduation, I’m planning to earn more working experiences from the fashion industry first. After that, I want to study abroad to explore more fashion-related things and find inspiration, while continuously developing my design collection.
在畢業後，我打算先從時尚界獲得一些工作經驗，之後我想出國留學，在學習中繼續探索和尋找靈感，同時不斷開發我的設計系列。
In case you missed Part 2, THEi Graduation Show 2019 Interviews 1-5 head here :
7. Leung Ho Lam, Jasmine // ‘The Celebration of Imperfection’ Collection
SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎？你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Jasmine : “The Celebration of Imperfection” is inspired from Chinese and Japanese aesthetics. The whole idea is to create a new definition of perfection, and to re-conceptualize the meaning of beauty. The creation technique of zero-waste has been my focus to emphasize the idea. A beautiful wet style will be applied in cooperation with my concept to fulfill the sustainability idea.
Zero-waste
The designed zero-waste pattern is inspired by the collar of the traditional Chinese shawl. This collar always appears in traditional Chinese clothing. I discovered that the pattern can be formed from a zero waste pattern in a repeated way. The pattern was designed in repetition. To ensure the perfect cut edges, it was cut by a laser cut machine. By overlapping the pattern, it creates various flower shapes and ruffles, so the garments can be easily decorated in a 3D way. It also serves to enrich the layering and enhance the volume of the piece.
Materials and fabric : PVC fabric, Gold metallic fabric, organza and tulle
主題和靈感
這個系列的靈感來自中國和日本的美學。作品主題是提倡不完美。希望透過作品重新定義完美和世人對美麗的觀念。不完美，古舊的東西都可以很漂亮。圖案靈感來自中國傳統披肩領。可持續發展時裝的理念將用作表達系列的主題，零廢棄設計是這個系列的的設計重點。
零廢棄設計
零廢棄設計圖案靈感來自中國傳統服飾。服飾上的圖案可以可以拼砌出密鋪圖形。為了確保可以完美地切割布料，將使用激光切割機切割。切割的圖案，它可以創造各種花形裝飾
布料
PVC膠, 金色閃粉布,柯根纱和網紗
SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是？
Jasmine : Viktor and Rolf
SP : Whats next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃？
Jasmine : During these 4 years of study in BA fashion, I realized how damaging fashion and garment-making is to the world. We, as the new generation of fashion creators, need to take action to make a change. Designing a sustainable fashion collection and eventually establishing a sustainable fashion brand are my goals. Making a sustainable fashion collection brought me unexpected satisfaction both in my final year project, and the Redress Design Award 2019. Consequently, to achieve my goals, I’m planning to study an MA degree overseas next year. I want to further pursue study in the sustainable fashion field which can help me enhance my skills and knowledge.
在這4年的學習中，我意識到時裝業對生態環境的破壞日趨嚴重。作為新生代時裝設計師, 我相信我有責任採取行動, 進行改變。設計可持續時裝系列並最終建立可持續時裝品牌是我的目標。在我的畢業作品和「REDRESS 設計大賽2019」時尚系列中，製作一個可持續時裝系列讓我有很大的滿足。因此，為了實現我的目標，我正在計劃明年到海外修讀碩士課程。我想在可持續時尚的領域繼續深造和研究，這可有助我提高自己的知識和技能。
8. Lau Hiu Lok, Andrew // ‘1996-” Collection
SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎？你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Lok : My graduation collection, named “1996-“, is an imaginary story describing the last journey of myself as a spirit. I pictured how it would be when gauzes of flashbacks run through our minds after we die. The warm memories with my family and friends, became a montage showing my whole life. These fragments disappeared in the blink of an eye, with only emptiness and loneliness left. I thought that it was the end but it wasn’t. The finale piece implies that even though we die, love remains in another form, in the memories of our beloved ones, forever and always. The circular-woven carpet made with different textures of yarn, creates an annual ring that’s indicative of my growth and all the wonderful memories I have had. The knitted dress was made by pieces of knitted jacquard with images of my family, hand stitched together one by one, showing the bonding I have with my family and how love exists in my beloved ones’ memories.
我的畢業作品名為1996-，描述一個關於自己死後的故事。在想像中，離世後我會走進一條隧道。與家人和朋友的曾經、溫暖的回憶都在霎眼間與我擦身而過，形成一條 Montage 片段。這些觸不到、抓不住的回憶碎片閃爍流逝，剩下的只有空虛和孤獨。我以為那是結束，但並非如此。系列中最後一件作品代表愛能以另一種形式讓我永遠留下，在我深愛的人的記憶中陪伴他們。
圓形的地氈以不同質感的紗線編織，組成一個年輪，代表着我的成長和我所擁有美好的回憶。我以電腦數碼提花把我和家人樣子、家裡的環境編織成不同織片，再以手縫一針一針把片片的回憶拼接一起，代表我和家人的關係以及愛如何在他們心裏長存。
SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是？
Lok : My favorite designers at the moment are : Jonathan Anderson, Glenn Martens and John Galliano.
我最喜歡的設計師是Jonathan Anderson，Glenn Martens和John Galliano。
SP : Whats next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃？
Lok : I will take a gap year before applying for an MA course in UK. I know that I am not ready for it right now and I would like to prepare myself to be a better before going onto the next big step in my life. I want to keep improving myself and never stop trying. Right now I am taking freelance jobs, and perhaps will apply for some short course,s and continueing to create garments as practice. I have also applied for a scholarship and will keep on participating in competitions to challenge myself and learn from the experiences.
接下來的一年我希望在進入人生下一個重要階段之前好好裝備自己。我正在嘗試不同的挑戰，例如 Freelance 設計工作、短期課程、參加比賽和繼續創作服裝。希望藉不同的嘗試和練習，累積經驗，增值自己。除此之外，我還申請了獎學金，為之後到英國升學作準備。
See what the Japanese graduation class at BUNKA 2018 were doing here :
9. Lam Fat Yung, Freya // ‘Lost Horizon’ Collection
SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎？你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Freya : This collection as a journal to telling a story of a permanently happy land. It’s the culture of Tibet – it’s unique architecture forms and decoration, from the amazing sight of the Himalayan mountains, to the the fauna, and water flow. The patched knitting pattern represents the prayer flags and the horizon of an admirable nature.
This knitting patched Jacquard outer is inspired by Tibetan interior patterns, Buddhism tools, and prayer flags. The knitting jacquard also has 3D embroidery and patches with hand-weaving panels made with freewheeling skill to represent the happy mood from Utopia.
To achieve sustainable fashion, this collection mainly uses natural fibres such as wool and silk. There also are biodegradable fibres – modal and viscose, manufactured fibres made from regenerated cellulose from trees. The hand-crochet / lace knitting techniques make use of synthetic lace, to achieve the fancy looks.
這個系列作為一個書籍講述一個幸福的土地的故事，從喜馬拉雅山脈的驚人景象，包括花卉和水，藏文化其獨特的建築形式和裝飾，一塊塊補丁針織圖案代表著祈求和平的經幡和令人欽佩的自然風景。
這款針織補丁提花外套的設計靈感來自西藏室內圖案，佛教工具和經幡。它還結合了在針織設計上編織細節，不同的顏色以表示來自經幡的信息。此外，針織提花也有立體刺繡和一些手工編織的提花補丁與隨心所欲的編織技術，以表示烏托邦的隨心所欲的幸福情緒。
為了實現可持續的時尚，這個系列主要使用天然纖維，如羊毛和絲綢，並有可生物降解的纖維 – 莫代爾和粘膠纖維，這是一種由樹木再生纖維素纖維製成的人造纖維。手工鉤針/蕾絲針織技術取代使用合成蕾絲。
SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是？
Freya : My favourite fashion designer is Gaby Aghion – the founder of Chloé. Her design style, ‘simple and feminine’, deeply influenced my ideal of beauty, and Anna Sui also is my muse of colour use.
我最喜歡的時裝設計師是Chloé的創始人Gaby Aghion，她簡約和女性化的設計風格深深地影響了我對美的理想，而Anna Sui也是我的色彩的繆斯。
SP : Whats next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃？
Freya : Through this two year study in THEi, I have refreshed my mind in a creative way and established my own unique design character. I will continue my career plan for working in the fashion industry.
通過在Thei兩年學習，它使我的思想更加成熟，更建立我的個人風格。 我將繼續我的職業生涯計劃，為香港時尚界工作。
10. Lau Tse Ching, Kelly // ‘Hope Kinetics’ Collection
SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎？你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
I still remember the first time watching my brother playing baseball in Lion Rock park. I was attracted by the team spirit of baseball. I wish to bring the spirit and the endorphin rush of the sport to the Hong Kong people via my designs.
I have used different shapes and textures of materials to show the spirit of sports, like baseball and American football in the design. Women can be tough in their appearance but soft in their heart. The essence of sport is the best way to show the features of women. Second, I have combined elements of baseball and American football style into my designs. In the shoulder detail, I constructed the cloth like the padding used in football. This structure channels the strong and powerful feeling I want. It could also represent the spirit of baseball and American football of “Pushing till the end, Fighting for the game”. The exaggerated design of the one-piece jacket was mixed with a tight cut vest. This creates the passionate side of the sport. Where ever possible, I tried to use the paddings found in baseball and American football to strengthen the fashion sense of the collection.
猶記得小時候，我第一次觀看哥哥的棒球比賽,我深深被他們的團體精神震懾。我設計靈感來自於此,希望我的時裝能帶出更多運動的安多分和正能量，注入香港人的血脈中。
希望香港人擁有我的設計精神，我混合了不同的物料，代表不同人物,融會誇張的造型和優美的是線條互相結合，而且營造出強而有力而不失保持着女性堅忍的柔美。 在我的設計中，揉合了棒球和美式足球的造型特徵，最有特色的部份是膊位兩側的支架，這個支架是解構了皮球，再組合而成。帶有強烈的結構性建築韻味，表現出強而有力的前進感, 也想表達像棒球一樣的前進戰鬥的精神。 造型誇張的連身外套，加入緊身的背心衣，特此打造澎湃豪情之感。肩膊兩側模仿了棒球及美 式足球活動盔甲的外型，強化整個系列的時尚風格。
SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是？
My favorite fashion designer is Chitose Abe. She is the designer of the Japanese brand called Sacai. Her designs are very avant-garde. The cutting of her designs look complex, but the way to dress is very simple. For me, she creates some completely unique, and innovative clothing designs with special taste, which are really attractive. Whether it’s the use of the materials, appearance, cutting techniques or color matching, they always show her creativity. She is a role model in the fashion industry. The designs of Sacai will be the driving force of my future fashion concepts.
我近年最喜歡的時裝設計師是阿部千登勢, 是日本品牌Sacai的設計師. 近年, 被她的設計深深吸引著我, 因為她的設計十分前衛，具有特殊的外型，裁剪方式看似複雜, 但穿着是很簡單, 當中創作出完全獨有，永恆，創新和實驗性的服裝設計，獨有一番風味，給我有一種與人不同的感覺。 無論是它所用的物料，外觀，裁剪手法或是顏色的配搭, 都是吃別出`心裁，不愧為近年來的在時裝設計師中的典範，這個品牌服飾的打扮亦是我將來渴望達到的品牌概念。
SP : Whats next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃？
I will use my collection from the Technological and Higher Education Institute of Hong Kong (THEi) graduation show to participate the Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers Contest this year (YDC 2019). I am lucky that I got to the quarter finals of the contest. It will be a great test for my career, as I consider this a baseline requirement to be a designer in the industry. It will give me the opportunity to show my designs to the public. The judged show will be held in September this year. Once the contest is over, I may start to design some simple clothing to sell in the market. It will be a test, to see if my designs can sell. I hope to prepare for my personal brand once the time is ripe!
今年度採用了香港高等教育科技學院畢業的作品主題參加了香港青年時裝設計家創作表演賽2019，憑着平常心，幸運地進入了十六強。因為這個比賽心算是入行的首要條件，必須把握十足，在九月份進行比賽。比賽稍後，開始設計一些簡單的服飾在市集擺賣，測試服飾的銷售量，然後會好好計劃籌備我的個人品牌。
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