Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translate : Lorien Chan
And we thought the fashion designs were impressive! Well we went a step further and asked the creative talents of the THEi 2019 Graduation Show to share with us what inspired their collections. In these interviews you will discover their fantasy escapisms, expressions of new beauty, and even dark, dark real life environments. An engrossing read, that confirms the youth have high concepts in their heads for social change, and a very grounded practicality. As brief as the interviews are they also share secrets of techniques used in creating the garments you see, and their future plans with us! Here is part 2 of 3.
既然我們覺得這些設計都令人印象深刻！那麼我們更進一步，找來10個今年畢業展中突出的設計師分享他們的故事。在這些答案中，你將發現他們逃避現實的幻想、對美麗的新定義什至最黑暗而真實的生活。這篇訪問將讓你看到年輕人在社會變革方面有很多高水準的概念。不長不短的訪談中，他們將分享你所看到的造型和未來的計劃。
Pls have a read of our introduction and show review here in Part 1.
Guan Yong Yi, Key // ‘Escaping’ Collection
SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎？你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Key : My theme is ‘Escaping’, which means escaping from the reality and dream, trying to break the rules. I used blue and orange as my main colors. Blue and orange represent the cruel world, and the passion of our dreams respectively. The black color is the dust of world. 90% of the outfits are made by wool and polyester yarns. The knitting makes use of the technique, stroll and trill relief.
我的主題是’逃避’，這意味著逃避現實和夢想，試圖打破規則。然後我用藍色和橙色作為主色。藍色和橙色分別代表殘酷的世界和我們夢想的熱情。黑色作為世界的塵埃。整個裝備的90％由羊毛和滌綸紗線製成。漫步和顫音浮雕使用的針織。
SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是？
Key : My favorite fashion designer is Thom Browne. His design style has its own strong personality. I really appreciate his designs, which are very inspiring and a signature all his own.
我最喜歡的時裝設計師是Thom Browne，他的設計風格有他自己強烈的個性。我非常欣賞他的設計系列，這是非常鼓舞人心和標誌性的。
SP : What’s next for you?
Key : Being a fashion designer is the next step of my journey. After joining the Lenzing workshop, and Australia Merino wool trip, I am interested in knitwear now. I would like to expand my job’s scope, to include menswear and knitwear.
成為時裝設計師是我旅程的下一步。在加入Lenzing工作室和澳大利亞美利奴羊毛之旅後，我現在對針織品很感興趣。所以我想擴大我的工作品種，包括男裝和針織品。
風起了/ONE TYPHOON WON’T STOP THE PARTY. SHANGHAI LABEL, FASHION SHOWCASE
2. Law Wing Suen, Kimmy // ‘The War At Home’ Collection
SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎？你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Kimmy : This design is an attempt to give life to one of the darkest aspects of our society by portraying the cold, violent, and unachievable expectations of abusive homes.
The main material is organza and silk. It shows a slow and cold impression, like living under cold violence.
Slow materials combined with the borderless water-soluble sewing pattern. This reflects children living under pressure.
這種設計嘗試通過描繪對虐待性家園的冷漠，暴力和無法實現的期望，為社會最黑暗的方面之一賦予生命。
主要材料是透明硬紗和絲綢。它表現出一種緩慢而冷酷的印象，就像生活在寒冷的暴力之下一樣。
緩慢的材料與無序的水溶性縫紉圖案相結合。 它反映了生活在壓力下的兒童。
SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是？
Kimmy : Craig Green is my favorite fashion designer. His design is simple, but each garment and collection has a strong personal signature. Also, his collections use a creative display style and expressions in different media.
Craig Green是我最喜歡的時裝設計師。 他的設計很簡單，但每件服裝和系列都有自己的特色。此外，他的系列採用創意展示風格在不同媒體中展示。
SP : What’s next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃？
Kimmy : My future plan for the moment is to continue my learning career.
我現在的未來計劃是繼續我的學習生涯。
3. So Cheuk Ying, Din // “I’MPERFECT” Collection
SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎？你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Din : The project “I’MPERFECT” considers imperfection as a form of beauty. It is inspired by the traditional Japanese aesthetics “Wabi-sabi”, the art of finding beauty in simple, impermanent and incomplete things in life. Imperfections like scars, wrinkles, vitiligo and freckles are something to be embraced, instead of something to cover up. Flaws make us unique. Through the collection, I would like to raise the awareness on the situation and change the perspective of what beauty is.
Inspired by Picasso and Surrealism, the abstract portraits were created artistically by stitch and patchwork, applied in multiple ways to represent the imperfect person.
The collection is combines nature and fashion. Dried flowers and petals were wrapped into the garments to represent imperfect beauty. Flowers are ever-changing. They keep their beauty even though they have already withered. We should learn to appreciate the process of change, and ways to bring elegance to our “imperfections” instead of hiding them.
“I’MPERFECT” 認為不完美是一種美。它的靈感來自日本傳統美學“Wabi-sabi”，即在簡單、無常和不完整的事物中尋找美的藝術。像疤痕、皺紋、白癜風和雀斑這樣的不完美是可接受的，而不是應掩蓋的東西，缺陷使我們與眾不同。透過系列，我希望提升關注，改變對美的看法。
受畢加索和超現實主義所啟發，一些以針線和拼湊創作的抽象肖像，以不同的應用方式表現不完美的人。
系列融合了自然與時尚。乾花和花瓣被包裹在衣服中以代表不完美的美，花不斷變化，即使它們枯萎了也會保持美麗，我們應該學會欣賞改變的過程，以及為我們的“不完美”帶來優雅而不是隱藏它的方法。
SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是？
Din : Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren are my favourite fashion designers. Viktor & Rolf mix up fashion and art, sending out messages with each style, silhouette, and print. They always test the limits of wearable fashion. Every collection brings us surprises and keeps things fresh through different creative approaches. Their works inspire me all the time.
Viktor Horsting 和Rolf Snoeren 是我最喜歡的時裝設計師，Viktor and Rolf混合了時裝和藝術，透過每種風格、輪廓和圖案帶出信息，他們總是挑戰可穿戴時裝的極限，每個系列都通過不同的創作方式，帶給我們驚喜，並保持事物的新鮮感，他們的作品總是啟發我。
SP : What’s next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃？
Din : After graduation, I would like to work in fashion industry a year to get more experiences. Then, I will study a MA program in UK to focus on creative and innovative product development. Through the course, I would like to develop advanced design, technological and manufacturing skills, then start my own businesses and a role in design management in the future.
畢業後，我會於時裝界工作一年，以吸收更多經驗，之後我會到英國就讀碩士課程，專注於創新產品開發，透過課程，我希望培養更深入的設計、技術和製造技能，在未來開創自己的事業，並擔任設計管理的工作。
Interested in the top levels of fashion creativity? Check out this FW19 couture story :
十件不是人穿的COUTURE . HUMANLY IMPOSSIBLE COUTURE PIECES. THE BEST OF COUTURE FW19
4. Tsang Lok Yiu, Yoyo // ‘Broken Kaleidos’ Collection
SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎？你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Yoyo : This design takes inspiration from the most minute of places, the human cell. Using the microscopic world of our body as a symbol for the incomprehensible and the mysterious, Broken Kaleidos (破碎的萬花筒) hopes to provide the viewer with a new angle on inner beauty. For living creatures one can feel the movement of cells; the flow of blood. Simultaneously, the illusion of deformation gives a feeling of unease. Sense of oppression seems like ‘to swallow someone’.
This design piece achieved Zero-waste fashion, which refers to items of clothing that generate little or no textile waste in the production. For example, the accessories of the collection such as head pieces, bags, shoes, also dress are made by the same piece of leather. Using a CNC machine to cut the leather, the remaining skin can also be fashioned in the perfect shape for reuse. As a knitwear student, I used the knitting piece directly and avoided cutting it. The materials used are polyester, elastic yarn, and wool. I twisted it by hand to change the shape.
這個設計作品實現了零浪費的時尚路，指的是在生產過程中產生很少或近乎沒有紡織廢料的服裝。例如：頭飾，袋款，鞋子和連衣裙等系列的配飾都是用同一塊皮革製作而成。使用數控機床切割皮革，因為能準確地計算所需用到的皮革形狀，以便重複使用。作為針織品學生，我直接使用針織片來避免剪裁中所生產的廢料。材料採用滌綸，彈力紗和羊毛。我把它們編在一起以改變形狀。
是次的設計靈感源自人類的細胞，借用存活在顯微世界中的身體細胞來表現難以理解及神秘感，Broken Kaleidos (破碎的萬花筒) 希望為觀眾提供一個關於內在美的全新視角。生物可以感受到細胞的運動及血液的流動。顯現不斷變化的幻覺給人一種不安的傳譯感及一種能夠吞噬人類的無形壓迫感。
SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是？
Yoyo : Alexander McQueen. Some of McQueen’s most memorable designs were outlandish, unconventional, and plain bizarre. It is the best inspiration for me because this maybe the last chance to develop extreme silhouettes, or designs in my life. His trademark heritage patterns are very delicate and gorgeous, and that encouraged me to design new patterns for my collection.
Alexander McQueen. McQueen最令人難忘的設計總對是是古怪，非傳統和直接的鬼魅。這對我來說是最好的靈感之源，因為它可能是我生命中發展誇張線條或狂想設計的最後一個機會。他精緻、華麗且剛標誌性的傳統圖案是為我系列設計中新的圖案的靈感之一。
SP : What’s next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃？
Yoyo : I hope that I can work in the knitting industry and learn more about knitting. I also want to challenge myself and try to learn different things, such as the work of fashion magazines, illustrations, etc.
我希望我能在針織行業工作，了解更多關於針織的知識。我也想挑戰自己並嘗試學習不同的領域，比如時尚雜誌，插畫家等的創作。
5. Anisha, IBARAM
SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎？你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
IBARAM : Inspiration //
I found myself on an entirely different planet abducted and trapped,
nevertheless I was numb at the pain and torture I suffered.
I became disfigured, distorted…
7 ft 2
My veins burst.
Bleeding, I turned blue, running out of breath.
Death.., just an inch away from my reach.
I was vulnerable.
Desperate, yet nobody knows what’s going on under the mask.
Nobody seems to even…. care.
I saw my reflection everywhere I went, ‘why are there mirrors everywhere?’
♪♪ (now here you go again, you say you want your freedom) ‘Fleetwood Mac – Dreams’ playing from a distance
But those…, those weren’t mirrors,
it was/is the reality.
我發現自己被綁架和困住了整個不同的星球，
儘管如此，我對我遭受的痛苦和折磨感到麻木。
我變得毀容，扭曲……
7尺2
我的血管爆裂了。
流血，我變成藍色，失氧氣喘著。
死亡……，它距離我只有一英寸。
我感到很脆弱。
絕望，但沒有人知道面具下所發生的事。
似乎沒有人……關心。
我到處都看到了自己的反思，“為什麼到處都有鏡子？”
♪♪ (now here you go again, you say you want your freedom) ‘Fleetwood Mac – Dreams’ playing
但那些……，那些不是鏡子，
它就是現實。
Materials//
A mix and match of woven fabrics to create contrast and illusion, i.e. heavy cheviot wool, drill, and metallic plain weave versus light polyester organzas, tulle, lace and cotton threads.
織物混合搭配，形成對比和幻覺，即重：cheviot羊毛，鑽和金屬平紋 輕質：滌綸透明硬紗，薄紗，蕾絲和棉線
SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是？
MATTY BOVAN
SP : What’s next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃？
MA Fashion… and My own brand, eventually!
繼續修讀時尚… 希望會有自己的個人品牌。
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