SPITGAN MAGAZINE: SPITTING MAD FIRE
俚語門學校/SLANG TONGUE. A SLANG DICTIONARY is where we gonna share with you different phrases and word stylings so you know what’s up! Our debut episode shares with you the Cantonese Slang, “搽鞋”. Cantonese is a rich and versatile language, know you some!
Data Writing : Lorien Chan
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Sd8U-vk90k
採訪/Interview and writing : Lorien Chan
攝影/Photos : Nick D @precursorprints
深入認識YMDH / Know more about YMDH here : @ymdhstudio
We first met Jason at his graduation show for the THEi institute in 2016. I recall on his face a deep disappointment and sadness. What were the emotions running through him at that time? Did something happen backstage? This image of him and his show music will be forever etched in my memory. After the Hong Kong YDC competition that year, Jason started his own label, YMDH. He seemed be well on his way to success with a cross-over shoe and bag collection with Hong Kong retailer I.T. called “I Go To School By Bus”. This project gave him a lot of exposure, and people in the fashion industry, and media took notice of this new fashion designer in Hong Kong. Due to the small nature of the fashion circle in Hong Kong we are fortunate to run into Jason from time to time, always with the intention of doing a formal interview. With an opportunity of a YMDH collective show, it was finally the right time!
第一次見李居錡（Jason Lee）是在Thei的畢業時裝表演舞台上，每個設計師雖然緊張但面上都藏不住內心的興奮。綵排時唯獨Jason一個人滿面愁容，我不知道那是他天然的「壓世樣」還是有什麼事在後台發生了，但這個奇怪的表情加上他選用的音樂讓我忘不了這個設計師。那次之後我一直想跟他做個訪問，解開我心中的迷團。YDC之後他在2018年成立了自家品牌YMDH,並與ITHK合作推出了一個聯乘鞋袋配飾的系列叫 “ I Go To School By Bus ”。這個合作讓他得到了不少的曝光率，令到時裝業界和傳媒認識到這個新晉時裝設計師。相隔幾年之後，這個訪問終於做到了。
< < Chinese continued after English below >>
READ THE FULL ARTICLE ON HONG KONG FASHION TALENT, YMDH CONTINUED HERE :
中文撰文/Chinese written by : Lorien Chan
「舉止溫和、品位高雅」這是為貝聿銘撰寫傳記的作家坎奈爾對他的印象。他就好像披著文化的神聖斗篷，彷佛意味著，我是如此高貴的華人，你們這些野蠻人永遠無法理解。大半生都居於美國的他曾表示，即使在美國住了七、八十年，「仍然覺得自己是中國人」。被譽為「現代派設計大師」的他出生在動盪不安的時代。1917年在廣州出生時中國處於積弱又飽受欺凌的年代，1935年前往美國攻讀建築學時正值日本全面侵華的前夕，到他學成想回國的時候，中國正飽受蹂躪，有家歸不得。
貝聿銘的創作一直堅持「讓光線來作設計」，貫徹將建築融合自然的空間觀念，設計出無數震撼世界的建築。他的建築風格，有著西方的現代風格，也融入東方幾何美學。而這與他小時候的生活經歷，有著極大的關係。貝聿銘的家族是中國蘇州望族，父親貝祖詒是上海商業銀行的其中一個始創人。每逢暑假，貝聿銘會回到蘇州，與堂兄弟們在自家園林「獅子林」玩耍，而蘇州庭園也因此成為貝聿銘最重要的兒時記憶之一。下面盤點我們最喜歡的作品：
Why speak about the Pritzker Prize winning architect, I. M. Pei? Well if you live in Hong Kong for one, you cannot escape his indelible imprint on our landscape. I. M. Pei’s work is iconic, and this is the dude that designed the Rock And Roll Hall of Fame! Don’t be dismissing this Chinese cat, he’s a star amongst stars. A Chinese man that built the structure that will recognize music’s all time greats? What are the designs that let to this commission? What other brilliance did he produce? We investigate his extensive portfolio and share with you what we discovered, and appreciated as his best above all. Born in Guangzhou, raised in Hong Kong and Shanghai, university at MIT, I. M. Pei felt like an outsider to both East and West. His indomitable spirit had him living to a healthy age of 102. Recognize.
日本美秀美術館 MIHO MUSEUM
「成為最好，卻無需一定要原創。//Be the best, not necessarily the original. 」
在設計美秀美術館時，他到訪了美術館的選址，那趟旅程讓他想起了兒時讀過陶淵明的《桃花源記》。於是這個美術館便還原了陶淵明的世外桃源。座落山中的美秀美術館要通過入口廣場的隧道和吊橋才能到達藏身於樹林中的美術館。隧道前栽種了夾道的櫻花，跟《桃花源記》情景互相呼應，燈光幽暗的隧道，就如漁夫穿越山洞之後，豁然開朗，置身另一境界。
From his first site visit I. M. Pei declared the area to be Shangri-La. He based the museum’s design on the Chinese story of, “The Peach Blossom Valley”. A tale of a fisherman who rows up a mountain stream and comes across a peach orchard in full bloom. Crossing to the end of the orchard he notices a ray of light illuminating a small cave at the base of the mountain. Entering the cave and travelling through it, the cave reveals the entrance and splendid view of Shangri-la before him.
True to the story, you must climb a sloped path lined by trees, pass through a stunning tunnel, and cross a bridge to find the Miho Museum. I. M. Pei captures that moment where the fisherman suddenly see Shangri-la in his design brilliantly. An emotive piece of architecture!
The Miho Museum also has a fashion connection with Louis Vuitton choosing to show it’s Cruise 2018 collection on its property! Check the video here :
https://youtu.be/UzIUQeoG-NQ
SEE MORE OF I. M. PEI’S WORK, AND SNAPPY WORDS CONTINUED BELOW :
有誰不愛富二代呢？九十後的你肯定會記得那個「有size的男人」。一個目不識丁的富二代萬人迷；一個努力上進的窮二代小女生。最簡單的有錢仔愛上唯一一個不喜歡自己的女生，故事老套又無聊。不過有錢又靚仔又有權有勢而且還帶點傻的花花公子絕對叫一堆青澀的少女瘋狂，畢竟現實中沒有這個選項供應。每個讓人心動的「浪漫」鏡頭，都能讓人瘋狂地幻想自已和那個心愛他如此甜蜜。但又有幾多人的青春如此夢幻？這個是我的青春、我的流星花園。
SPITGAN : Can you give me 100 words on the F4 phenomenon?
Johannes Pong : They just hot Taiwanese boys that every basic bitch in the Sinosphere wanted to fxck.
Ming wears Mockneck & Button Down Shirt – COS / Headband and Pants – Shanghai Tang
Ming穿著COS的津領上衣和恤衫、上海灘的長褲和頭帶
SG : Haha. I think your frontin’…
JP : STFU. I am not in POP, bxtch. Esp pop sung by people who CANNOT sing.
Ming wears Jacket & Pants – Ports V / Hoodie & Canvas Shoes – American Eagle / Headband – Shanghai Tang
Ports V 外套和長褲、American Eagle連帽衛衣和布鞋、上海灘頭帶
You like this story? Check out our SS19 fashion showcase ‘Guido’ featuring Valentino, Bally, and HK brands Rats Cave, and Necro Poon here // 喜歡這個故事？看看SS19 fashion showcase ‘Guido’的Valentino, Bally, and HK brands Rats Cave, and Necro Poon造型吧：
http://blog.spitgan.com/fashion-showcase-guido-a-petty-crook-pt-1/
CONTINUE BELOW TO SEE THE FULL FASHION STORY OF “浪子/HEARTTHROB (F4 DEVOTION)”:
中文撰文：Jose Chu @azhu_chu
一年一度的「時裝界奧斯卡」又到了，2019 Met Gala在紐約大都會博物館慈善晚宴以「Camp: Notes on Fashion」為主題，由Gucci創意總監Alessandro Michele與Lady Gaga和Harry Styles共同主持，這組合當然是會以浮誇為主軸作主題風格。今年，主題則被定為「敢曝：時尚筆記」（Camp: Notes on Fashion）。這個詞彙與主題靈感來自於 1964 年美國作家Susan Sontag 所撰寫的文章 Notes On 「Camp」，文中提到Camp一詞是對非自然之物的熱愛，是種對誇張事物的欣賞，一般Camp的中文譯成「侃皮」、「敢曝」，聽起來有點抽象？簡單來說可以用「以浮誇而達到戲劇化效果」，後來延伸成為一種審美標準和身份認同，成為一種非典型美學、惡趣味的風格。但「Camp」這個字在廣東話的應用便有點貶義了。這個難以掌握的風格看來也不是所有來賓都吃得消，下面看看今年最難明白的造型呢。
An essay by Susan Sontag, Gucci the creative direction. This Met Gala was the perfect theme for all to let the monkey out. Be the fantasy! Boy did some people trip the F up! Perfection doesn’t leave much room for humor or cynical laughs though so we happy as F some people didn’t get the memo or didn’t know how to read the memo. Check it out if you can stomach it all!
作為主辦人之一的Harry並沒有穿出如Lady Gaga的驚喜、也沒有Alessandro Michele的華麗。單純的一個話題性造型。// As the co-host of this event, Harry Styles tops our list with this tragic outfit by Gucci. See if Gaga has a spare for you son.
一條奇怪的裙子。//What is this piece by Balmain. This looks like a real attempt at sophistication. It’s just not good which doesn’t make it ‘Camp’. Bad is bad.
