如果早幾年我未必會去留意韓國時裝。但今日,韓國的Fashion Week 似乎真的很有「睇頭」。但我依然覺得韓風偏向女性化,無論是用色還是剪裁。而且還有超多Oversize及ruffles。Blindness今季就個系列便齊集了你所想到的流行元素: 絲絨、綢面、皮、閃粉、透視、膠料…應有盡有。雖然有不少誇張的材料,但因與其他例如透視的輕面料互相配合就平均得多。特別喜歡那套藍色絲絨套裝,Ruffles開叉的褲腳很可愛呢!
BLINDNESS FW17 COLLECTION
XANDER ZHOU FW17 MEN’S WEAR
衣衫不整的工作服?
你不能怪得這樣想,飛起來的領呔、未扣好的恤衫、不稱身的外套… 我不敢再想像這是怎樣的工作環境哈哈!有件奇怪的,似斗蓬的西裝外套。後面的摺讓外套好像那種「超人斗蓬」。最有趣的是,穿著最整齊的居然是兩套工人服。這算是和現實的一種反諷嗎?
SEAN SUEN FW17 MEN’S WEAR
這季的Sean Suen有Boss的味道,不過相對年輕得多。相似的點有麂皮、毛毛領、皮衣等等的設計。但可能因為Boss的剪裁像那種舊英倫感的闊腳西褲,因而便老氣一點。Sean Suen的貼身九分褲、拼Fur細節都讓沉穩普通的那陣Boss風變成Sean Suen風,充滿生氣。將誇張的金色皮結合低調灰色西裝料更是一個很好例子平衡兩個極端的風格。
KA WA KEY LABELHOOD SHANGHAI PRESENTATION PT2
All photos including Top Banner by : Nick D for precursorprints.com
See PT. 1 HERE. < < English continues below after the Chinese >>
粉末代表什麼?
粉末代表了自由,某種形式的噴發,甚至可能是性高潮,以及那種驚人的感覺。 當慾望帶走我們時,感覺很好,對嗎? 在那些時刻,我們想要感慨一下。 粉末也是非常直觀的元素,在照明和皮膚上看起來很好,並且使皮膚變得“髒”,當我們屈服於我們的慾望時,特別是當它們超出規範時,我們常常感覺有點“髒” ,因為那是我們不應該想要的東西。
你們在那裡找到你們的模特兒?是否最終由Labelhood提供?
我們做了street casting。我們問了朋友,什至朋友的朋友成為我們的模特兒。有此模特兒的聯絡資料是由Labelhood提供的。我們希望有不同的人混合成為我們的模特兒,一個很巨大的圈子。我們十分滿意他們的表現,不止他們的表演、動作。我知道有些模特兒是很嚴格的。例如,有一個模特兒在排練是前分鐘就到達了。他做了很棒的工作,而且繼續觀察和適應。
我們喜歡在工作中有一定的脆弱性。這些東西不是排練得很好,但保持了一些興奮,並推動每個人都盡力而為。 它顯示了一個真正的原始性。 每個人都投入到表演中,我們有非常好的團隊合作。 非常感謝我們前任實習生Jenny,我們今次的助理導演,而且幫我們完成了所有的翻譯。
你喜歡更多的概念表演多於傳統的時裝表演?
對於我們的品牌來說,展示我們作品的概念性表演更具有相關性,因為我們能夠展示系列的想法,並通過我們的表演來講述故事。 我們要講故事和敘述,因為它們是我們工作的重要組成部分。 受眾看到的是一個怎樣的故事。 我們希望每個人都帶上一個最適合他們的故事。
What did the powder represent?
The powder represented freedom, certain kind of eruption, maybe even orgasm, and the amazing feeling after that. When desires take us over, it feels good, right? In those moments we want to feast with the feeling. The powder is also very visual element, it looks good with the lighting and on the skin and makes skin “dirty”, like very often we feel a bit “dirty” when we give in to our desires, especially when they are out of norms, when they are something we are not supposed to want.
Where did you cast your models from? Were they provided by Labelhood in the end?
We did street casting. We asked friends, and friends of friends to model for us. Some of the model contacts were provided by Labelhood. We wanted to have a mixture of models, some with a performing background, which was a massive, massive plus. We are super happy with how all the models performed, not just modeled, performed. We know what we had our models do was quite demanding. For example, one of our models arrived just minutes before our first, and only rehearsal. He did amazing job and nailed it; adapted and observed. We like to have a certain fragileness in our work, something that is not too rehearsed, and polished. This keeps up the excitement, and pushes everyone to do their best. It shows a real rawness. Everyone threw themselves into the performance, we had very good team to work with. A massive thank you belongs to our amazing former intern, Zuoran Li (Jenny), who worked as an assistant director, and did all the translations, and everything with us.
Do you prefer more conceptual presentations vs traditional runway shows?
For our label, a conceptual way of showing our work is more relevant as we are able to showcase the idea of the collection and tell the story through our presentation. We want to tell stories and narratives, as they are an important part of our work. It’s up to the audience what kind of a story they see. We wish everyone to take with them a story, which suits them the best.
Stay tuned for our full interview with KA WA KEY coming soon!
毒品/GROUND ZERO FW17 AD CAMPAIGN
大概講起Ground Zero都會想到運動風、街頭文化等元素。今次的運動主題再不是各品牌玩到爛、玩到悶的籃球了。在僻靜的海邊練習空手道,好像那些隱世高人般,又好像舊港產武打片的。總之充滿亞洲臥虎藏龍的感覺。