FFFRIDAY 2017 PT2

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All photos including the Top Banner : Falcon Lam

繼續第一部份 Read PT1 HERE. English below >>

不過The World is your Oyster 和Dynasti絕對適合這個又年輕又活潑的表演場地。由其The World is Your Oyster即場穿衣換衫的表演,幾個男女Model以最日常生活方式展現服裝。就像在家中看書、發呆,但你完全不會覺到沉悶,因為每個動作的改變,都正好展示出衣服的不同細節和特色。睇到一半FFFRIDAY的貴賓F5突然走入觀眾席,謀殺了不少菲林。好像連外星朋友都來支持香港時裝了!之後Dynasti的表演配合了一段動畫,讓他的那種年少輕狂更加強烈。而且他們選用一堆比較看起來冷艷的model,可以說是把品牌特色完全呈現出來。

唯一要挑剔是上到藝穗會的表演好混亂。3個品牌同時進行,真系「睇到一個望吾到另一個」,結果3個表演都不能專心欣賞。不過如此創意的時裝發佈確實告訴了我們,香港時裝開始大膽起來了!可能下次First Look 我會扮怪獸嚇下大家!哈哈!

What an amazing location, The Game Centre! This arcade, an energetic and youthful location, definitely suited The World is Your Oyster, and Dynasti’s image. I loved The World Is Your Oyster’s show. Models changing there outfits right in front of you, lacadaiscally posing like they were in a daze, or reading at home. Straight chillin’. Goin’ through the motions of daily life but showing all details of the clothes and styles. Right in the middle of the presentation, BOOM! The towering presence of supa-VIP, F5, appears! This furry cousin of the abominable snowman cannot be missed. What a cutie! Aliens from space are down with HK fashion! Dynasti follows in the same place. They present an animated video with their show, and make the young and frivolous atmosphere more intense. They girls lookin’ sexy as F too! The girls be, WERKIN IT, stayin true to the brand character.

I ain’t down with the Game Centre to Fringe Club set up though. Is the show over? We head up to The Fringe Club and the first show is caput! Then 3 shows start at the same time?! Aw snap, whiplash. Work it out team. I mighta missed some very good moments here, but this effort is really bringing life and creativity back to HK fashion. Dare to be! Maybe next time I can do some Cos-Play at FIRSTLOOK! Salute.

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JUNWEI LIN FW17 MEN’S WEAR

上季覺得Junwei Lin的感覺是小屁孩。但今季小屁孩好似成長了,多了花花公子的感覺。開始會打扮自己的他,今次多了點配飾如珍珠頸鏈那些。金屬色和大地色貫切整個系列,在西裝外加皮帶和那條裙子,也加強了花花公子那種愛玩、不安分的玩味。那下季會不會又是屁孩的另一個人生階段?

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KA WA KEY LABELHOOD SHANGHAI PRESENTATION PT1

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All photos including Top Banner by : Nick D for precursorprints.com

One of the best presentations we were able to catch at Labelhood Shanghai SS18 was put on by our friends Ka Wa Key. We asked Jarno, one half the dynamic duo to explain what we saw and photographed for you. Check it out. Part 1 of 2. < < English continued after Chinese >>

在上海SS18 時裝週,其中一個在Labelhood 最好的表演是我們的朋友 Ka Wa Key展示的。Jarno,其中一個設計師為我們解釋一下你將看到的照片!PART 1 & 2! Gogogo!

可以介紹你在Labelhood那場表演的概念吧?
那個是啟發自皇家芭蕾舞團「變形記」的啟發。我們在Labelhood的表演中展示了一個變形,回應他隱藏的秘密、慾望和執著。 這是一個夢,有些浪漫,甚至關於性,但同時我們有點搞砸了。 這是我們想做的事,卻不一定有勇氣去完成。 表演是關於蜕變和變化。 我們之間所發生的事。 演出混合了動作表演和傳統時裝表演, 很大程度上依賴於服裝和模特的動靜。 我們還想在幕後發佈一些通常只在後台發生的事情,例如在觀眾面前換衣服。 在一天結束的時候,這個時裝表演會是很重要的一部分。

在表演中,有一個“男人”,他發現了他的夢想、想像力、頭腦或任何隱藏的慾望。 他一個接一個地揭示了他的慾望。 起初他有些害怕,但之後開始塑造他的慾望,試圖控制、甚至改變他們。 但他無法做到這一點,他的慾望就像現在一樣出現。最終將他們的圍巾和衣服脫掉,做真正的自己。 最後唯一一個保持不變的人是戴著圍巾的“男人”,他害怕向自己洩露自己的慾望。

“擺脫誘惑的唯一方法就是屈服。 抵制它,你的靈魂因為渴望自己所禁止的東西而生病,使渴望它的可怕變得怪異和非法。“ – Oscar Wilde

覆蓋模特兒的面孔,這是你最近的一個不停重複的做法。 它代表什麼?
是的,這是我們近期工作的一部分,也會繼續使用。 面具總是有些神秘的東西。 這也是我們SS18敘述的一部分,以及我們的Labelhood的表演。 在演出中,它只是隱藏角色的真實身份。 唯一沒有揭開他的臉和眼睛的角色就是“男人”。 他也是唯一一個保持不變的人。 最後他是唯一不符合標準的人,仍然留在自己的衣櫃裡。 正如我們所說,眼睛是靈魂之窗。 我們也想把注意力放在服裝和款式的表現和動作上,因為我們的表演主要是基於這樣的。

Can you tell us about the concept for your presentation at Labelhood?
Our presentation was inspired heavily by the Metamorphosis performed by the Royal Ballet. Our presentation at Labelhood showcased a twink’s transformation in response to his hidden secrets, desires and obsessions. It is a dream, something romantic, maybe even a bit sexual, but at the same time something a bit fucked up. It’s something of what we want to be but don’t necessarily have the courage to be. The presentation is about metamorphosis and change. What happens inside us. The presentation was a mixture of movement based performance, and traditional catwalk; heavily based on the movement of the garments and models. We also wanted to unveil something that usually happens behind the scenes, at the backstage, changing the clothes this time in front of the audience. At the end of the day it is such an important part of fashion shows.

In the presentation there is “a guy”, who discovers his hidden desires in his dream, imagination, mind or pretty much where ever. One by one he unveils his desires. At first he is a bit afraid, but eventually begins to mold them, his desires, trying to control, and even change them. He doesn’t manage to do so and his desires come out as they are, eventually removing their scarves and clothes, being exactly what they are. Eventually the only one who stays the same is “the guy”, wearing his scarf, being afraid to reveal his desires to himself.
“The only way to get rid of a temptation is to yield to it. Resist it, and your soul grows sick with longing for the things it has forbidden to itself, with desire for what its monstrous laws have made monstrous and unlawful.” – Oscar Wilde.

The covering of the model’s faces, this is a repeat motif for you recently. What does it represent?
Yes, it’s been part of our work recently, something we like to use every now and then. There is always something mysterious about masks, people covering their faces. It’s also part of the narrative of our SS18 collection as well as our Labelhood presentation. In the presentation it represents simply hiding the character’s true identity. The only character who doesn’t unveil his face and eyes is the “guy”. He is also the only one who stays as he is. Eventually he is the only one who doesn’t fit the norm and still stays in his closet. As we say, eyes are the window to soul. We also wanted to draw the attention to the garments, the performance and movement of the garments and models, as our presentation was heavily based on such.

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JUNN.J FW17 MEN’S WEAR

同樣都是oversize大大件,Street Wear inspiration 的品牌,Junn.j的現譯比起其他,你現在腦中浮現的street fashion品牌有著與別不同的現譯手法。在他這邊,可以放大、不規則地剪裁衣,卻不是那種「Ugly Beauty」。他不會加入鬥醜鬥出位的塵世。不過雖然Junn.j是街頭文化啟發的設計,但我不太認同他是Street wear。我想Street Wear的一重點是舒適,即使Vetements的單品也不難搭配穿著。Junn.J嘛,起碼那連身皮褲、拉鍊褲和超大直身外套,你也不會在一般場合穿著吧!而且也不是容易駕馭的!那件白色長針織衣服,要是給我穿肯定像瘋人塔的瘋子一樣,哈哈!

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CYNTHIA & XIAO FW17 WOMEN’S WEAR

Cynthia & Xiao 是香港做得頗成功的本地品牌。兩位設計師都從Central St. Martins 畢業的。Xiao主修Knit wear而Cynthia是design及marketing。他們今季的作品充滿中國味道,例如刺繡、老虎print及由流蘇拼出來的一些圖騰,都隱隱散發着中國的風格。最讓我記住的是灰、黃色的幾套,特別加上流蘇裝飾,簡單又活潑。針織間因不同的交織所成的變化也讓一成不變的針織有了生氣。

攝影 Photo / Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for Fashion Hong Kong
撰文 Article / Jose Chu
NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 15: A model walks the runway at Fashion Hong Kong Fall/Winter 2017 during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Gallery 3, Skylight Clarkson Sq on February 15, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for Fashion Hong Kong)

NEW YORK, NY - FEBRUARY 15: A model walks the runway at Fashion Hong Kong Fall/Winter 2017 during New York Fashion Week: The Shows at Gallery 3, Skylight Clarkson Sq on February 15, 2017 in New York City. (Photo by Neilson Barnard/Getty Images for Fashion Hong Kong)
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