The long awaited. A lot of blood was spilt.
毒品/JOHN GALLIANO TREADS
September 28, 2013 By Leave a Comment
品牌John Galliano 可能振作起來，這雙皮鞋讓人感到一如以往，細節上的檸檬綠色心心圖案夠型格!
John Galliano might be getting his ish together, but these shoes under his imprint are, ‘Phat Like That’. Heart cutout motifs to the lime green under, and a ‘tick ‘tick tread…butter.
我行我素/MAESTRO. AITOR THROUP
September 26, 2013 By Leave a Comment
採訪/INTERVIEW ：SPITZ
撰文/CN ：ESSY CHIU
PHOTO BASE : Maurice Choi, maurice.choi@gmail.com
PHOTO MANIPULATION : THETHINKTANKCRE8IVE
Aitor Throup不下數次強調他是產品設計師及藝術家而不是時裝設計師。雖然他的時裝作品打從他在2006年于London Royal College of Art畢業時便開始備受注目。但這位別具一格的設計師卻不願與今日時裝圈混為一談，出道7年以來只跟隨自己的意願而行，設立自己的一套準則，向自己的目標進發，名與利對他來說不比挑戰自我更為重要。比起很多同輩的名成利就的年輕設計師他看起來可能有點兩袖清風，但就是這種堅毅與不妥協，令這位阿根廷籍的年輕設計師看起來更有攝人的魅力以及更難能可貴。
Throup的設計充滿美感同時又有很多理性的計算在內。他曾經在一些訪問中說過希望不斷創新，但他同時深深明白一件物件只有具有來龍去脈才能引起共嗚，所以他亦不諱言會參考物件的出處，然後在設計的過程中，不斷拷問，研發一套自我的規則，再創造完全屬於自己的發明，像「Aitor sleeves」、「Aitor legs」等這些絕對讓你可以花上一些時間解讀的有趣時裝。儘管有點與時裝圈不相為謀，他說絕對尊重今日的時裝，只不過今日很多時裝設計師在這個已既定好的時裝業做著的，不是自己所想做的事情，他不想因為時裝業六個月為一個週期的規定而將自己喜歡的、辛辛苦苦做出的創作放棄，反而是希望將這些點子廷續下去，創作一些美麗但同時沒有破綻的物件。好一個充滿理想與堅持的設計師！
Fact. Aitor Throup claims himself to be more a product designer and artist, than a fashion designer. His designs have garnered him great attention from the very beginning. From his graduation collection for London Royal College of Art in 2006, his unique philosophies on design have set him apart from most of today’s fashion industry. He is one to set his own rules, moving with purpose towards individual, independant goals, and personal challenges. Fame clearly is not as important as the focus of vision. Compared with this generation’s young and successful contemporary designers, it is easy to overlook his achievements, and forget him in the mix. Yet his persistence, process and singularity is a powerful statement in itself and one that commands respect.
(English continued after Chinese)
SPITGAN – 你是否只設計男裝？
Aitor Throup – 是的，但開始的時候我沒有特別為自己鋪路去設計男裝，我不當自己是時裝設計師，反而會為自己定義為藝術家與產品設計師。因為時裝設計師對我來說，是有一個最終目標 (視野)的，那便是怎樣將一件衣服穿在人體身上而好看。但對我來說，那卻是一個巧合而已，穿得好看在我來說是加了分，但我的最終設計是一件沒有人體穿著的「靜止物件」，所以我展示的都是單一的產品設計。我不是特別想為男性設計成一種特定的打扮，我只不過選定了某一種形態。我的設計都是以產品設計為基礎，卻同時很容易與時裝融合。
高級時裝/HAUTE COUTURE: CHANEL HAT
September 26, 2013 By Leave a Comment
沒有東西是神聖不可侵犯的嗎？Spitgan和haute couture?為甚麼不行？潮流的尖端總會有我們的魔眼掃視全城。這個帽子設計只能說，好神。Karl爺的tweet料帽子混合鴨舌和紳士帽的形狀有甚麼不行？太讚的設計，聽我說，一切都是mix and match, 一切都是mix and match。
Is nothing sacred you ask? Spitgan on haute couture? Of course mama! We in it to win it. At the pinnacle of fashion we aim our ‘Eye of Sauron’. Man this thing works like a charm. How about these tweed hats from the merry madness of Kaiser Karl himself? Very nice. Mix and match babe, mix and match.
街霸/STREET KNOWLEDGE. PAUL MITTLEMAN
September 25, 2013 By Leave a Comment
採訪：SPITZ
撰文：ESSY CHIU
Paul Mittleman是Adidas Original的全球設計總監，在還未加盟Adidas之前，他在Stussy工作了二十個年頭。來自紐約的他，見證了從1980年代開始運動品牌影響街頭文化，及到今日又怎樣影響著高級時裝的歲月，他可說是collaboration(品牌與品牌之間的計劃)的先鋒，在街牌界中有著一定的影響力。早前他去到上海出席當地的一個大型街頭品牌活動， 我們籍著這個機會與他做了一個訪問。
Street Cred? All hail. Paul Mittleman hasn’t just been holding down the spot for streetwear; he might have damn near pioneered the genre. Paul goes back to the early days of Stussy. One of the first recruits to the legendary brand that birthed so many others. The native New Yorker has moved on up, and sideways, and now sits with the illustrious title of, ‘Global Design Director’, for the behemoth that is Adidas. Adidas Originals to be exact. So you know they’ve tapped him for his savvy in the game. We had a chance to sit down with the self-proclaimed, ‘inventor of the collaboration’, himself, and go through a bit of streetwear anthology with a fella that was involved with it from the giddy-up.
( English continued after CN )
SPITGAN – 可否說說你的背景。
PAUL MITTLEMAN – 在Adidas Original之前，我曾是Stussy的創意總監， 在那裡工作已有二十年，我可以說是首幾位發明了Collaboration的人。我之前沒有想過會成為Adidas的全球設計總監，所有事情都是很自然發生的，對我來說每天的工作都是一種挑戰。
