SPITGAN MAGAZINE: SPITTING MAD FIRE
在一個正好大地回春的早上，一兩束微小的光線從窗邊滲進房間裏。剛好起床的你取起床身那件紫色、上面鉤織了小島的晨褸穿上，隨意地束起頭髮，然後走向廚房按了一下咖啡機…
當我看到Natasha Zinko今季的照片後，腦海就浮現了這個畫面。這個系列有種鬆容懶散、十分隨意，卻又充滿時尚的感覺。會聯想到起床的早上，主要是兩件晨褸的設計主導了這個想法。
但實際上這個系列的衣服可以變成另一種完全不同的造型，例如那些螢光色的西裝和連身裙，十分簡約隨性卻又充滿型格。又例如粉紅拼黃和藍色lace的連身裙和幾件碎花print的連身裙，同樣充滿活力。還有那件好像連起了的牛仔褲，兩個腰圍的設計都很新鮮有趣！
攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of Natasha Zinko
Well everything was going swimmingly with the SS17 Christopher Shannon show, starting with sportswear in some sorbet colors. The all white sneakers, a collaboration with Hi-Tec where so fresh and oh so clean! Must admit the head pieces were strange, but a funk I could digest. Then the denim arrived. First it gave me flash backs of warehouse raves with the re-up of what we called, “Vader pants”, familiar territory. Then emboldened, Chris started ripping the denim or cutting windows in them. More than the technique it was the placement of the cuts. Once he got to straight detachments and cuffs hanging off the ankles my laughter could not be supressed! Do you young squire! Whooohaa~
Runway Photos : Courtesy of Christopher Shannon
You know what? I fear the #balmainarmy. Having had a chance to watch it materialize for a couple years now I get it. Ever seen Stargate? You know those retro-future Egyptian dudes they battle? They wearing Balmain. It’s actually a bit more Greco-Roman, but this stuff definitely makes me thing of that ish, cheese and all. It’s like a cross-section between the worst of Versace and Giorgio Armani. 82 outfits were strutted out on the runway this season. It was a bloodshed of denim and high hue color. Jesus Christ was somehow involved.
Tell me Jesus wasn’t an inspiration.
Hahahaha. NO.
你對80後的認識是什麼？叛逆、個性突出？Esteban Cortazar 就是這樣的一位80後時裝設計師。他是邁阿密國際時裝週上最年輕的設計師。Be Honest，我對這系列有瘋狂購物的衝動！也許你不知道，Cortazar自小喜歡騎馬，因此他的系列多數都會出現這個原素。看看頭三套皮革上衣，抽象化地表現了馬鞍的形態，但配針織下身卻又出奇地吻合。認真的:開叉針織長褲、牛仔褲、Fur毛毛皮褸都肯定會是我今季的must have item！
攝影/All photos by :Yannis Vlamos
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我對英國的看法十分極端，因為英國有兩種很強烈對比的風格：紳士和朋克。不過無論多斯文的人，肯定都有個頑皮的小孩住在心中。所以真正寫實的英國風應該將紳士風和朋克結合吧。這應該也是Dondup這季的一種靈感吧！
Donlup, some slickly styled looks here for their FW16 collection. Like the denim jacket treatment
