SPITGAN MAGAZINE: SPITTING MAD FIRE
Dries’ 100th show! The gent ran through a retrospective of his work over the years bringing out an army of prints, dressed on favorite girls of the last 20 years. Timeless as ever, the only thing that didn’t sit well were the fur pieces. The print clashes, colors, and shiny fabrics still pack the punch of a master. Carry on Mr. Dries Van Noten!
這季的Sean Suen有Boss的味道，不過相對年輕得多。相似的點有麂皮、毛毛領、皮衣等等的設計。但可能因為Boss的剪裁像那種舊英倫感的闊腳西褲，因而便老氣一點。Sean Suen的貼身九分褲、拼Fur細節都讓沉穩普通的那陣Boss風變成Sean Suen風，充滿生氣。將誇張的金色皮結合低調灰色西裝料更是一個很好例子平衡兩個極端的風格。
你對80後的認識是什麼？叛逆、個性突出？Esteban Cortazar 就是這樣的一位80後時裝設計師。他是邁阿密國際時裝週上最年輕的設計師。Be Honest，我對這系列有瘋狂購物的衝動！也許你不知道，Cortazar自小喜歡騎馬，因此他的系列多數都會出現這個原素。看看頭三套皮革上衣，抽象化地表現了馬鞍的形態，但配針織下身卻又出奇地吻合。認真的:開叉針織長褲、牛仔褲、Fur毛毛皮褸都肯定會是我今季的must have item！
攝影/All photos by :Yannis Vlamos
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什麼?皮草衣服給小孩?我想這些孩童的服裝品牌在設計上已經有些少毛病。有否想過替你的孩子買Fendi?或者這件?不過這件比較好的，這是人造皮草。這個皮草概念只會不停的延續下去，就如可卡因一般可怕。但公平地說不只是 Bluemarine替小童設計皮草服裝，想不定H&M和Zara已經推出它們的版本吧。希望大家可藉著想想這問題吧!
No. No. NO. Really?! A fur for kids? WTF is this? Kids big brand clothing I think is already messed up. Like who buys their kid Fendi? Now this? A fur? This better be fake. The idea itself is some crack cocaine. I just ain’t with it. To be fair Bluemarine isn’t the only brand making furs for kids. Supposedly H&M and Zara also have their own versions. Get your mind right!
微電影的熱潮席捲全球，不少品牌選擇這種方式演繹他們最新的系列及品牌形象。這次由老佛爺Karl Lagerfeld親身執導的微電影《INVITO PERICOLOSO》邀請了老佛爺的寵兒Cara Delevingne 和荷蘭名模Saskia de Brauw一同演出。由於這季Fendi主打是皮草，所以在電影中可以看到主角身穿這季Fendi不同款式的皮草。眾所周知老佛爺對攝影的熱愛和對時裝設計熱愛程度不相上下，看到這次拍攝的角度及音效營造了懸疑及神秘的感受，可見老佛爺對拍攝執導的技巧又更進一步。拍攝的同行小心!Karl Lagerfeld來了!
Looks like fashion is really starting to explore the possibilities of film now; excellent. Do you like scary movies? Suspense? None other than Karl Lagerfeld delivers a short film for the House of Fendi, playing with the emotions of horror and fear. To my knowledge the first fashion film I’ve seen exploring a darker narrative. The initial excitement of the film doesn’t carry though and by midpoint it clearly begins to lag. Perhaps there is a sequel or part deux?
