SPITGAN MAGAZINE: SPITTING MAD FIRE
一看到用上金色的印花或刺繡，總是覺得有種日本和風的味道，而這感覺通常比較華麗；Cynthia Rowley的設計雖然用上了這種印花和刺繡，但感覺多了一份不羈和自由。跟原本的日本和風應該有很大差別吧。
Our SPITGAN fashion department can agree to disagree here on Cynthia Rowley’s FW16 collection. Colorful and bright, patterns are a handful, but the cuts to me remind me too much of territory that Miu Miu continuously treads.
Photos : Willam Eadon
成熟又華麗的外表，但實際上擁有一顆浪漫少女心，完全厚顏無恥地將心目中的卡通化思想表露出來。這是我對Creatures of Comfort FW16系列的解讀。無論服裝、鞋履的設計感受都偏向穩重斯文的。但一些細節就暴露了那內心的少女：鞋上頸上的一朵小花裝飾、純色恤衫的小心心印花……由其一套粉紅色絲絨西裝迷人又帶點嫵媚，不過配上入面的黃色上衣，那種活潑和動力不難察覺。
Creatures of Comfort with some colorful women’s offerings for FW16. From the pant suit to knits, functional fly.
Photo: Aitor Rosas/Vogue.com
Photo: WGSN
紅色代表熱情，但Dior Homme的熱情是冷靜和有侵略性的。或者更像一種魔鬼的感覺，從入面散發出來的霸道，讓人敬畏卻有充滿邪惡的吸引力。順帶一提最後幾套以花作主角的外套、毛衣和西褲雖然很有活力很年輕，但和Dior Homme的形象好似有點不同，或者要來點改變？
One of the stronger collections in recent memory for Dior Homme FW16. Maybe the idea just presented in a clearer fashion than previous seasons? The baggy silhouette and the punk references were nice narratives.
Top Banner Photo : Bleu Mode
Runway Photos : Yannis Vlamos
在一個極簡主義的設計師手中，猛獸可以被淨化。她們身上不規則切割的寶石看起來十分高貴及冷靜，就是這一個細節讓充滿野性的動物印花設計變得大方、冷靜。
Calvin Klein embellishments for FW16 womenswear. Pretty imaginative idea to imbed stones in clothing! Thanks to Francisco Costa for a great reign at Calvin all these years!
學生的時裝作品最好看是少了一份商業味道，充滿了無限想像、創意和故事。今屆Central Saint Martins的學生似乎都喜歡透視、寬鬆的設計。其中一個model 上身好似只有一個魚網在入面，配下身綠色絲絨褲，全身上下都有像海藻又像污染物的布塊，鞋是用麻繩編織而成。看起來就像一條在海底生活得十分痛苦的魚。
Some standouts from this season’s Central Saint Martins FW16 show. Dem rope slippers by Alexander Krantz really taking Derilque to a whole ‘notha level! Much potential here.
Michael Halpern
Alexander Krantz
