薄紗、歐根紗,那些輕得輕輕一吹便會隨風游走的布料,繡上了神秘的一些紋路。未必是花、也未必有一個實際意讓形態。但起碼Armani帶出了一個像謎語的系列讓我思考一下。這種神秘極之性感。對了,一開始幾條褲子也讓我思考了一陣,男裝剪裁的褲子在女模身上充滿剛陽味。和上身deep v的西裝是兩種不同感覺,但加起來居然溫和得很是舒服。
VIKTOR & ROLF FW17 HAUTE COUTURE
現實世界變得如此奇怪,那倒不如來點不現實的奇怪吧!不同膚色,髮色,髮型的大頭娃娃,配上不同顏色的唇膏。穿上了由MA-1 Bomber Jacket演變出來的各種產品,有上衣、外套或是長裙,有Plain的也有Patchwork pattern的。顏色上還是沿用MA-1的basic colour Olive,Navy和orange,簡單的搭上球鞋或是Dr.Martens。這個女生看起來很貼地,但目瞪口呆的表情又教人心寒。
但放心,大頭娃娃是非賣品。
The real world has become so weird, why not make some unrealistic, and strange things? This is a fantastical riff on the Skinhead uniform. MA-1 jackets, Dr. Martins, and jeans. The voluminous shapes is sooo Victor & Rolf. I like the interpretations in general here. The doll heads…sure why not…What was that Michael Fassbender movie? The street kind of aethetic grounds it for me and makes it all more digestible. This collection also blurs the line between Haute Couture and Pret-A-Porter, to me resting somewhere in the middle where most Victor & Rolf collections have.
ESTEBAN CORTAZAR FW17 WOMENS
My gut tells me that me and Esteban collide one in a blue moon. Taste I mean. That blue moon has arrived this season. Besides hoping the first piece is not real fur, I dig the clash all over here. The piece in white is a surprise, a respite from the rest of the collection which is a goulash of patterns and fabrics. Enjoyable though with the whimsical cuttings to the sportswear an extra plus!