毒品/CHOCOOLATE FW2014 AD CAMPAIGN

IT公司旗下品牌CHOCOOLATE最受瞩目的部分之一,恕我的愚见,是他们的广告宣传。利用光滑图像的从众心理而大胆地选择使用动画/插图,本季CHOCOOLATE力邀TheBruce Wayne超人成为了系列封面。为什么Bruce Wayne会接受这份邀请?虚荣?因为显然,经济不列入考虑范围。不管怎样吧!一位诚实的超级英雄在任何时候都不亚于超模的影响力。

One of the best things about I.T.’s in-house brand, Chocoolate, in our humble opinion, has always been the advertising campaigns. Bravely choosing to use animation/illustration over the herd mentality of slick images, this season Chocoolate has invited THE Bruce Wayne to be the face of the collection. Why would Bruce want to do it? Vanity? Clearly money wasn’t an issue. Anyways kudos! A bonafide superhero trumps a supermodel any day.

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毒品/FW2014 高级定制回顾/FW2014 COUTURE REVIEW

值得庆幸的是FW2014高级定制还算短暂。参与的品牌设计范围从巧思概念,到随机甚至丑陋。总体而言,令人大失所望。大多数品牌看起来或是平白无趣,或是半生不熟。同时,我们也注意到了最近许多日装/运动装的蠕变,令成衣收藏和高级女装之间的界限开始变得模糊。最值得瞩目的大约是 Victor & Rolf所打造的“穿着红毯”, Giambattista Valli也不错,而时装新手Hussein Chalayan则与Vionnet时装屋携手,杀出自己的一条血路。许多品牌的系列单品都超过50件以上,无意不在各位脑子画下一个巨大的问好,这有必要吗?以下是我们按字母顺序排列的视觉回顾。嗨呀!

Thankfully FW2014 Couture was brief. Of the brands that participated, the designs ranged from cleverly conceptual, to random and hideous. Overall a big disappointment. Most labels looked uninspired or half-cooked. We’ve also noticed a lot of daywear/sportswear creep in lately which is beginning to blur the lines between ready-to-wear collections and haute couture. A tip of the hat goes to Victor & Rolf for their cheeky execution of ‘wearing a red carpet’, Giambattista Valli did something, and Hussein Chalayan, couture newbie, popped his cherry with Vionnet. A lot of brands came with well over 50 pieces per collection, also composing the question in one’s mind, is it needed? See our visual review in alphabetical order below. Hiyah!

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Alexis Mabille Couture FW14

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Armani Prive Couture FW14

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Atelier Versace Couture FW14

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Chanel Couture FW14

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Christian Dior Couture FW14

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Elie Saab Couture FW14

GIAMBATTISTAVALLI_FW14COUTURE

Giambattista Valli Couture FW14

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Maison Martin Margiela Couture FW14

SCHIAPARELLI_FW14COUTURE

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毒品/ PATTA X CARHARTT WIP FW2014

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接近季末的时候出现了不少有趣的作品。但说真得,它们来的相当及时,做出来的时候正符合穿着的时节与条件。我说的就是PATTA X CARHARTT WIP。该系列比较保守,并没有新颖的剪裁来推进设计。口号是!哦,哦,哦,打住!有时候许多细节很容易被忽视。终于发现了症结所在! “Wild at Hartt(错拼)’? 靠!这算不算专利呢!看起来任何品牌总监都能够由秀场回归到绘图板上。

Some interesting projects coming out late this season. Really though, they right on time, and ready to be worn in the weather and conditions they were made for. Patta X Carhartt WIP here. The collection is capsule, and there really are no new silhouettes that push the design forward. The slogan though! Oh oh oh, pause! Sometimes stuff just gets overlooked. That’s the lic right there! ‘Wild at Hartt’?! Dammmn! Patent that ish! Get you some! Kudo’s! Any brand manager can pick there dentals up off the floor and go back to the drawing board.

在亚洲各地I.T.专卖店有售。Available at I.T. stores across Asia.

毒品/SAINT LAURENT FW2014 男装广告/SAINT LAURENT FW2014 MEN’S AD CAMPAIGN

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不可思议,直到现在我们才谈到到Hedi Slimane的摄影。那风格无论何时都是一眼就能分辨出的,这一季的秋冬男装广告为我们展现了众多的冒险的视角与瞬间。常规的构图被更广阔而大气的镜头取代,而仔细观察,更像是即兴地抓拍。在画面中的,一如既往是Slimane的酷酷的主角与摇滚元素。

Surprised its taken ’til now for us to mention Hedi Slimane’s photography. While its instantly recognizable, this season’s FW campaign for men drew us in with more adventurous angles and moments. The usual formal croppings were replaced by wider atmospheric shots, and closer, seemingly off the cuff moments. Still in the picture are Slimane’s cool subjects and rock and roll chic.

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時裝片/FASHION FILM : 一天,DIOR HOMME记事/NOTES OF A DAY, DIOR HOMME.

Willy Vanderperre的时装电影永远那么的令人赏心悦目。所有的暧昧、模糊统统都一边凉快去,但老实说,大多时装电影所表现的故事情节都不免蒙着一层薄纱般的伪装,而Willy似乎总是赋予了它们更多物质性。或许在那神秘而令人紧张的声效中还埋藏着深刻真理。我为我此篇中装B的艺术屁道歉。

A Willy Vanderperre fashion film is always enjoyable. For all the ambigious; F-that, lets be honest here, dubious, mist-thin guises for storylines, fashion films attempt to portray, Willy’s always seem to have a substance to them. Perhaps in the mystery, the nervous soundtracking, there-in lies a profound truism of purpose. Excuse me, for my art-fart in this post.