毒品/BEHIND THE SCENES. KNITWEAR SYMPHONY 2016 PT. 1

Truly a symphony. This fashion show was “Mobb Deep”. An ensemble cast of knitwear flavors from the up-and-coming in Hong Kong. Organized by the good people at HKKIDS (Hong Kong Knitwear Association, lets say), there was some real talent to be had in this season’s crop. Hong Kong’s future is in some capable hands. Hopefully these young guns will be allowed to foster on home turf! We sent in a worse for wear, Nick D to photograph the proceedings backstage and somehow he turned some, “too cool for school” models into a laughing and smiling mess! PT.1.

All photos : Nick D for precursorprints.com
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SPITGAN TV/STYLE WARS. EPISODE 2, SS16 RUNWAY

Let’s go crazy! Joey Ma and Nick D back again! Going through the latest and greatest of SS16 runway collections around the world. Talking smack and laughing all the way!

SPITGAN.COM . SPITGAN.COM . SPITGAN.COM . INSTA : SPITGAN_MAGAZINE . INSTA : SPITGAN_MAGAZINE . INSTA : SPITGAN_MAGAZINE . FACEBOOK.COM/SPITGAN . FACEBOOK.COM/SPITGAN . FACEBOOK.COM/SPITGAN . WEIBO.COM/SPITGAN . WEIBO.COM/SPITGAN . WEIBO.COM/SPITGAN

她有勁/SHE GOT MOVES. SUKI RABBIT INTERVIEW

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特別嗚謝/Special thanks to ‘Lil Fly
翻譯/Translation – Sharon Chiu
攝影/Photos : Nick D for Precursorprints.com

當Lil Fly跟我提及Suki Rabbit時,說她曾跟Suki學舞,我立即打起十二分精神,因為Lil Fly介紹的,都是非等閒之輩。我對於街舞這一欄也有些許認知,因為身邊也有朋友會定期舉辦一些與Hip Hop 、街舞有關的活動,但卻未曾聽過Suki Rabbit這個名字。於是我在YouTube上稍為搜索一下,BLAM! 很快便出現Suki Rabbit的街舞視頻。對於一隻兔子來說,她有著的是人類的超級基因,這當然是開玩笑,但在她的視頻中,你可以見到她跳Reggae及其他音樂時的超凡舞姿,她有的是勁,超酷!那些自命IT Girl的時尚博客,看看什麼才是真正的“IT” 吧。

< < CHINESE CONTINUED AFTER ENGLISH >>

So a ‘Lil Fly told me a while back about this amazing dancer in Hong Kong called Suki. Said she trained under her a bit, so my ears perked up cuz, when a ‘Lil Fly speaks, you know, ish gets a buzzing! I feel I have a foothold in the Hip Hop/dance game because I have some friends pretty involved in throwing events on the regular, but the name doesn’t register. A little Youtubing though and BLAM! There’s Suki! Suki Rabbit. For a rabbit, she definitely has dominant human genes! Jokes. Girl don’t kill me! In the videos, you can see Suki gots the funk. Seeing her get down to Reggae and different music styles, you just see she’s got IT you know, by the ton. So yeah, for all of fashion bugging out over whatever self-ordained ‘it’ girl of the moment, let’s ordain our first at SPITGAN, Suki Rabbit!

SPITGAN : Why do you dance?
Suki Rabbit : Because dancing makes me happy and is the way I release my emotions. Every time I hear the music, I feel things in my brain, and my energy finds the way out. Dancing has become a part of my life. Without it I have no place for release. It’s very simple, I dance whether I’m happy or not.

SG : Are you more yourself when you dance?
SR : I really like the free spirit of freestyle (dance). I’m afraid of the limitations of traditional formats and being trapped by a lack of creativity. Every time when I hear the music, it inspires my freestyle movements, I find that’s the “real me”. I don’t know if I would be “wilder” or not, I’m just being myself when I dance. I dance to the music. When the music goes wild, I follow.

SG : What’s the most important part dance?
SR : Every part is crucial from the techniques, and emotions, to your soul. There are no rules saying if you’re a bad dancer you can’t dance. Everyone can dance. Dance can be purely a hobby or a profession, but when dance is your profession, you have to be good. So it really depends on dancing in what circumstance. When I work, I use more techniques, but when I am doing freestyles and dancing in my leisure time, I use more emotions in order to express myself. Different music can generate different emotions, and I use different emotions to interpret it. For different occasions I use different approaches too.

SG : I think your dance style is very aggressive and full of power. How would you describe your own style?
SR : My dance style is very me, so I never really think of what style that is. I’m just being myself. Suki is Suki. It’s hard to find words to describe. If you have to have a name for it, maybe it’s “Suki Style”.

SG : Do you watch your own dance recordings?
SR : Yes, (to see how I do) sometimes I like my performance, and sometimes I don’t. When I see myself dance poorly, I will get upset and give myself some pressure to dance better next time. Of course, there are times I am satisfied with myself.

SG : How did you discover dance?
SR : When I was a kid, my parents would give me lots of freedom and let me try many things. When I learned ballet, I realized I love dancing, but ballet wasn’t the dance style I liked. I loved art back in the days. Drawings, designs etc. but I never did well in school, so I decided to spend more time on dancing. I never thought of being a professional dancer. I never chose dancing, but dancing chose me. I say that because every time I wanted to give up, it always came back to me like an addiction. In the path that I have travelled, I have met lots of friends who share the same dream, as well as, mentors and students. Their support and encouragements are my motivations to carry on. There are many things in life that I feel happen against my own will, but dance give me a clear mind and lets me be myself.

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帥哥/GOOD LOOKIN’ OUT. MEN’S FW2015 FASHION STORY

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外套/Jacket – Zegna Couture, 恤衫/Shirt – ACNE (from I.T.), 長褲/Pants – Paul Smith

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大衣/Jacket – Paul Smith, 長褲/Pants – Bottega Veneta, 鞋/Shoes – Louis Vuitton

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毛衣/Sweater – Maison Margiela (from I.T.)

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外套/Blazer – Bottega Veneta

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外套及牛仔褲/Jacket and Jeans – Ann Demeulemeester (from I.T.), 太陽眼鏡/Shades – Moncler, 鞋/Shoes – Louis Vuitton

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外套/Jacket – Sandro, 牛仔褲及鞋/Jeans and Loafers – Loewe

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上衣/Polo Top – Lacoste X Peanuts, 太陽眼鏡/Shades – Moncler

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外套及長褲/Jacket and Pants – H&M X Ximon Lee, 樽領上衣/Turtleneck – Bottega Veneta, 運動鞋/Sneakers – Sandro X Reebok

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外套及長褲/Jacket and Pants – Louis Vuitton, 運動鞋/Sneakers – Adidas

攝影/Photos : Nick D for Precursorprints.com
造型/Stylee : 2 Dirty Guys
髮型及化妝/Grooming and Hair : Shue Lai
助理/Assist : Maurice Choi, Ivan Leung
模特兒/Model : Zhang Yan for Primo Management

嘈嘈閉/MAKING NOISE. XANDER ZHOU FW2015

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背心及長褲/ Vest, Pant – Xander Zhou, 運動鞋/Sneakers – Adidas

採訪/Interview – Jamie Suen
翻譯/Translation – Jin Tao
攝影/Photos – Nick D for precursorprints.com
造型/Stylee – 2 Dirty Guys
助理/Assist – Maurice Choi
模特兒/Model – Bohan Qiu
書法/Calligraphy – No Pain Man

Xander Zhou,時裝設計師,今日男裝一個炙手可熱的名字。這位年輕的設計師出道數年成績已有目共睹,他不但挑戰了男裝的傳統,更同時建立了自己的一套設計美學,為中國設計帶來更高的關注度。Spitgan與這位充滿自信的大男孩做了一個訪問,讓我們一起走進他的創意世界。

Young Xander Zhou’s star has been on the rise for sometime now and we finally caught up with the livewire for a sit down conversation. In case you didn’t know,
he has, and strictly designs menswear. Here at SPITGAN, we feel in the last few years Xander has really developed his own aesthetic that is both pushing the boundaries of men’s fashion, and drawing attention to the Chinese design scene. Enjoy as we chop it up with Xander about everything under the sun!

<< English continued after Chinese >>

SPITGAN : 我可以說2011年是Xander Zhou品牌重生的一年嗎?
Xander Zhou : 2011年?!其實我不記得2011年發生什麼事情了。但11年、12年對我來說是很重要的兩年,如果你說是重生 ,我覺得也有道理。因為對我來說,13年開始是一個全新的階段,11年跟12年則比較像是個準備的時期。

SG : 在你的世界裡,STYLE是什麼?
XZ : STYLE是一種自信,來自你的生活體驗,它很獨特,沒有辦法複製、學習,也沒有辦法超實。如果你有就是有,沒有就是沒有。

SG : 你怎樣形容你的個人風格?
XZ : 我喜歡舒適的東西,很簡單、不很「時裝」的。我也很喜歡年青的事物,包括與運動有關的事物。我不一定喜歡運動本身,但對所有運動類的服裝很感興趣。我很不喜歡當下潮流的東西,心底下甚至有點抗拒,所以我有時會故意穿得很不時髦。

SG : 一些外國獨立品牌的設計與你的有著一些共通點,你覺得有趣嗎?
XZ : 其實我覺得現在的時裝已經跟所謂的潮流沒什麼關係了。雖然我們做設計的時間很短,但在創作的過程中也學習過,見到過不同年代流行過的時裝。所以對於我們這一代的設計師來說,時裝是沒有年代的,比較混亂。我們都是在看類似的東西,所以在創作時,我會以跟那些大的國際品牌很不一樣的方式去設計。我有時候會想,誰會穿那些大品牌的設計?!我覺得它們今日做的東西跟年青人想要的失去了連繫。同時,我又覺得今日很多街頭品牌太容易了,只是將幾個logo 或幾個大的digital print 放在T恤上。所以現在的年輕設計師需要去想的是,怎樣可以讓年輕人覺得時裝是cool的,手法是沒有那麼的簡單。

SG : 因為我都是年輕人,也喜歡看一些時裝雜誌的潮流,然後看看是否適合自己。
XZ : 但有時候真的沒有什麼共嗚。

SG : 你會說自己是中國設計師嗎?
XZ : 可以這麼說,但我也只是做回自己而已。「中國設計師」這個名號我是需要的,因為它會為我帶來一點好處,像大家會說:「啊! 對於中國設計師來說你能夠做到這些也挺特別的。」但對於自己的設計來說,這樣的身分我不是很在乎。

SG : 你感到壓力嗎?
XZ : 其實壓力不是來自於稱號,而是設計師本身就很有壓力。我的壓力很多時候都來自自己,因為不論我做得多好或多不好,總會有人喜歡與不喜歡。是60分、80分還是100分,只有自己才知道。

SG : 對!因為每個人的評價與感覺也不同。
XZ:像我會知道「我這次沒有做好」,因為我感到了壓力。

SG : 你會為哪一類型的男生設計?
XZ:我現在慢慢會關注不同類型的男生,很奇怪,我會在Instagram 上follow 不同的人,也會關注一些每天秀肌肉的男孩,然後看他們selfie每天做gym的成果,我覺得挺有意思的。我也會關注那些玩滑板、衝浪的男生,比如說一些法國的。我之前在巴黎拍過一些15、16歲的小男孩,他們平時的生活都是派對、抽大麻,然後都會放在Instagram上的。我會觀察不同的男生,他們的影像都刻在我腦海裡面,這對我做設計時很有幫助。因為我會想像他們穿上這些設計的樣子,然後看看剪裁是否適合。

SG : 你有想過給老一輩的人穿嗎?
XZ:他們如果穿我的衣服,我會很開心。可是我的腦子裡面沒有他們的畫面。

SG : 在設計過程中,會不會給自己一些限制/框架?
XZ:會!就是一個控制的能力,因為很多時候我的想法都很寬,如不給自己一個框架的話,系列永遠也不能完成,更可能會變成一個亂局。但那個框架一定是我做了很多research 後的一個決定。決定不一定是最理想的,框架也不一定是最滿意的,但會是最乎合當初想法的一個。

SG : 你設計時會不會問身邊朋友的意見?
XZ:我會問他們的想法,然後他們會跟我說他們的感覺,但是我根本不會聽…

SG : 不會聽?好吧!(笑)
XZ:應該說我不想知道,也許我只會問幾個人,三個?! 都是我最好的朋友,或者我覺得他們的品味最好,若果他們的想法跟我的想法相同,我會很開心,如果不一樣的話,可能到最後會堅持自己的想法。

SG : 你的衣服是不是「中國製造」?
XZ:是!

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左頁/LEFT PAGE : 外套及長褲/ Jacket, Pant – Xander Zhou外套及長褲/ Jacket, Pant – Xander Zhou, 針織衫/ Knit – Hermes, 運動鞋/Sneakers – Adidas
右頁/RIGHT PAGE : 外套/ Jacket – Xander Zhou, 長褲/ Pant – Hermes, 運動鞋/Sneakers – Adidas

SG : 感到驕傲嗎?
XZ:我沒有覺得驕傲,我也沒有覺得羞恥!

SG : 中國生產/製造的質量達到國際水平嗎?
XZ:當然!你的衣服做成怎樣其實跟你在哪裡生產沒有關係,你看看倫敦、巴黎或者紐約的年輕設計師,很多都是在英國生產,但也不一定是最好的。在哪裡做我覺得問題不大,反而是整個製作上的要求,像用什麼面料、怎樣的造工,每個人都不同。但我覺得在中國某些方面做得好,像中國的OEM工業便很厲害,這麼多年一直幫國外一些大品牌做。我們有非常先進的科技及很高的生產效率,只要你有很好的計劃,在中國是可以做很多事情的。

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