Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translation : Lorien Chan
SPITGAN有幸能夠採訪本地時尚人才 Jason Lee 關於他設計的工作絕對是個大開眼界的好機會。從觀賞的角度轉而為新時尚人才的發源，為時尚界帶來不可動搖的人才。在參加THEi畢業生時裝騷看到 Jason 的YMDH回顧展時，發現原來香港的新鮮血液已經嶄露頭角，為所有 Spot light 做好準備。隨著後台的顏色與舉動一一移置至前台成為焦點，今年的設計作品顯然擁立不少資深才掌舵。深刻的個人設計元素，過目驚人的原則展現，另一些則別具大膽的描繪及形態。不論是女裝或男裝同樣令人留下刻骨的印象。
Chinese after english // 中文譯本在英文之後
An eye opener. The opportunity to interview Hong Kong talent Jason Lee about his design work metastasized into an even greater bonanza for discovering new fashion talent. In attendance for the THEi graduate fashion show to check out the Jason’s YMDH retrospective, Hong Kong’s new blood was in the wings and ready for the spotlight. With the backstage color and action crystallizing into focus, this year’s designs crop clearly had some strong talents at the helm. Individual outfits impressed, some with striking restraint, and others with bold statements and form. Equally impressive we’re both womenswear and menswear.
‘The Celebration of Imperfection’ collection by Jasmine Lam drew my attention in the dress rehearsals with its forms and dense material silhouettes. I really appreciated how the grand pieces exercised the restraint to present such a bold idea and remain clean. Uncluttered maybe a better word? Mostly tops with one head-to-toe piece. Jasmine’s daring ideas were paired with stark black pants to direct full attention and focus to the main garment. Well done, as it was an eyeful already! Sustainability was also mentioned in the artist statement and I would be curious to see how this was applied to the PVC dominant pieces.
Check out this interview, “HONG KONG DESIGNER BRAND, YMDH, MIXES CHINESE AND WESTERN INFLUENCES FOR THAT STREETWEAR DRIP”:
http://blog.spitgan.com/ymdh2019_jasonlee/
‘The War At Home’ a menswear collection by Kimmy Law, struck me down with one piece. To me it combined a streetwear influence with raw pop color detailing’s to great effect. To read the artist statement was the greatest surprise of all! “This collection is an attempt to give life to one of the darkest aspects of society by portraying the cold, violence, and unachievable expectations of broken homes.” Was the predominantly white collection a reference to Chinese funeral attire? Clearly a misread perhaps lost in East-West translation? Such a dark source did not register in the slightest except for the confidence in which the collection was expressed. What a head trip!
A poetic menswear collection by Andrew Lau, the Frankenstein forms, and the surreal concepts of Din So also left a strong impression with me that there is a new wave of talent in Hong Kong ready to bubble!
Read PT.2 and 3 of our 3 part exploration of the THEi graduate show as we interview many of the designers involved in the show, asking them to express themselves in their own words. The future of Hong Kong fashion!
<<Chinese version below>>
“The Celebration of Imperfection”系列由 Jasmine Lam 一手包辦，系列的形狀和密集的材料塑造的輪廓滿滿吸引了我的注意力，相當欣賞他們總是能在誇張、大膽和克制中找出一流的平衡感，保留固有想法的同時不忘大眾的喜好，乾淨利樂絕對是最好的形容吧？大部份的設計都以 head-to-toe 的一件頭為主題，Jasmine 把大膽的想法與鮮明的黑色褲子作搭配，令觀眾都能夠好好分別誰才是主角，全神貫注並專注於主要的服裝上。Well Done！這樣便足以令時尚達人們養養眼了！可持續性亦是她所主張的主義之一，我非常期待能看到她將會如何應用PVC到她的主導作品之中。
由Kimmy Law設計的“The War At Home”男裝系列絕對讓我驚艷不已。系列將街頭服飾的影響與原始的流行色彩細節組成結合，效果極佳。能夠了解藝術家自身的陳述一向都是所有人最大的驚喜！ “這個系列試圖通過提供破碎的寒冷感來表達社會中的暴力與無法實現的期望，是生命中最黑暗的一面。”以白色為主的創作是否受傳統中國喪葬文化的影響？顯然是西方思想的一個誤解及奇想吧？若不是借系列表達滿滿的自信心，那麼這必定是一個從沒登記於黑暗史中的新暗黑感。真是一次大開眼界的旅行！
Check out this womens fashion story, “WHILE YOU WERE OUT, I WENT RACHET. A PRE-FALL 2019 WOMENSWEAR STORY”:
忠於自己/WHILE YOU WERE OUT, I WENT RACHET. A PRE-FALL 2019 WOMENSWEAR STORY
Andrew Lok的詩意男裝系列，的Frankenstein的XX和超現實概念的XX的創作亦給我留下了強烈的印象，像都在告訴我香港即將會有一股新的人才湧入！
我們對THEi時尚畢業展共概括了3大部份，請細閱第2和第3部分來了解更多時尚設計師的想法及理念，我們共採訪了10位參與展覽的設計師，讓他們用自己的語言表達自己的理念。為香港時尚的未來大力拓展！
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