採訪/Interview and writing : Lorien Chan
攝影/Photos : Nick D @precursorprints
深入認識YMDH / Know more about YMDH here : @ymdhstudio
We first met Jason at his graduation show for the THEi institute in 2016. I recall on his face a deep disappointment and sadness. What were the emotions running through him at that time? Did something happen backstage? This image of him and his show music will be forever etched in my memory. After the Hong Kong YDC competition that year, Jason started his own label, YMDH. He seemed be well on his way to success with a cross-over shoe and bag collection with Hong Kong retailer I.T. called “I Go To School By Bus”. This project gave him a lot of exposure, and people in the fashion industry, and media took notice of this new fashion designer in Hong Kong. Due to the small nature of the fashion circle in Hong Kong we are fortunate to run into Jason from time to time, always with the intention of doing a formal interview. With an opportunity of a YMDH collective show, it was finally the right time!
第一次見李居錡（Jason Lee）是在Thei的畢業時裝表演舞台上，每個設計師雖然緊張但面上都藏不住內心的興奮。綵排時唯獨Jason一個人滿面愁容，我不知道那是他天然的「壓世樣」還是有什麼事在後台發生了，但這個奇怪的表情加上他選用的音樂讓我忘不了這個設計師。那次之後我一直想跟他做個訪問，解開我心中的迷團。YDC之後他在2018年成立了自家品牌YMDH,並與ITHK合作推出了一個聯乘鞋袋配飾的系列叫 “ I Go To School By Bus ”。這個合作讓他得到了不少的曝光率，令到時裝業界和傳媒認識到這個新晉時裝設計師。相隔幾年之後，這個訪問終於做到了。
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READ THE FULL ARTICLE ON HONG KONG FASHION TALENT, YMDH CONTINUED HERE :
Be A Fashion Daddy
To commemorate the excitement of becoming a dad, everyone has their own way. Jason chose to set up his own fashion label “YMDH” to remember the birth of his little daughter, hoping that the child and brand can grow in tandem healthy. It’s like taking care for two babies at the same time, he says. “YMDH’s full name is, ‘You Make Daddy Happy’, which also implies that I am the father of the brand. I hope that YMDH can make me happy, and at the same time create designs that bring a joy to everyone. For me, YMDH is more like a spirit, an unrestricted spirit with perseverance. The four English letters of YMDH can have different combinations and different meanings”
The design of the brand is a mix of different cultural totems in Chinese history, Western tailoring and street fashion. It is a rarity in Hong Kong’s local design. Jason says that in addition to Chinese elements and Hong Kong culture, Hip Hop is one of his inspirational elements too. “I like all the different street cultures. I am interested in street graffiti, music, and dance. Some of Hip Hop’s music, the rappers, their spirit and their clothes have deeply influenced and changed me. Hong Kong also has some good hip hop artist such as JB, because I think his style is very personal. In fact, we always want to find some unique people to cooperate with and share a cultural exchange.”
JB – 潮共
Hong Kong Tycoon In Denim
I also remember Jason’s THEi show vividly for his wide-volume sleeves and the Chinese phrase, “褲不過三代”, printed on the pants. (It is from a fable in Chinese, meaning, ‘wealth can not last for over three generations’ Wealth in Chinese is a homophone with pants.) All of his designs and accessories, like rings and plaques are like ‘creating’ a Hong Kong tycoon. “Many of my designs are based on historical costumes from China. Some small designs in the tailoring and detailing are based on traditions to improve the needs and aesthetics of today’s society. For example, we chose denim based on the feelings of Hong Kong people who love jeans. When you walk on the street, it is not difficult to find that many people around you are wearing jeans, so I use denim as a common fabric. If you pay close attention to it, in addition to denim, the fabrics we choose all have ulterior motives. We use some Japanese fabrics, their feel is different, so that guests can have another experience.”
Born And Bred In Hong Kong
Although many of Jason’s designs are based on Chinese elements, Hong Kong culture is also a big visual identity of YMDH. “It is a personal preference of mine to design with many of Hong Kong’s cultural signifiers. I hope that some of our (Hong Kong’s) local cultures can be shared with the world through my design. I hope to bring the joy of YMDH to every corner of the world.” Although Hong Kong is a big international city, many local cultures are not easy for foreigners to understand. When asked if he would be worried that only Cantonese speaking people would understand his designs, Jason answered with confidence: “I don’t think only Hong Kong people can understand it. Of course, Hong Kong people will have a sense of intimacy with it. Sometimes though, we will offer more explanations, or hints, making the meaning of our designs easier for people of different races to understand. I think that a good design will definitely have people who appreciate it and look to understand the meaning behind the design. In earlier work, I had created some designs inspired by the local artist, “The King of Kowloon (九龍皇帝) “. After the performance, some young people were greatly interested and inspired by his artwork through our presentation and were inspired to further research his life and work. These reactions to me are definitely very meaningful things. It is like passing on culture, and letting more people realize the unique culture of Hong Kong. It’s a mission!”
We Love Hong Kong
Hong Kong is a place full of different cultures. Seems everyone has greater appreciation in the cultures of other developed places, a kind of mass, ‘grass is greener on the other side’ mentality. Locals always have blind faith in foreign things at the expense of our own. From Jason’s perspective, “at a point, Hong Kong people generally do not support Hong Kong people. They do not know how to appreciate Hong Kong’s characteristics. It (this attitude) can also explain why it is difficult to see local brands use local faces to shoot.” It’s obvious Jason loves Hong Kong loud and proud, so I ask him to describe the ‘perfect’ Hong Kong, in and define what is Hong Kong Culture. “The perfect Hong Kong in my heart is a city full of love. This city can have a lot of tolerance and acceptance; full of human touch, it is a place that is a perfect mix of Chinese and Western ideas and life. I think it is best to use a song from Edison Chen, ‘Hong Kong Land’ to summarize what Hong Kong culture is.”
The reality is, Hong Kong’s fashion industry always has a lot of complaints and negative voices. High rents and high costs have deterred many people from creating brands or businesses. Despite this environment, Jason is very optimistic about the current situation. “I think every industry will have difficulties. The most important thing is that the industry can unite and support each other, make a good atmosphere for us. Of course, the brand should also have a broader vision, look towards a global ambition as well.” Young Jason with a happy family and a growing brand, says that his circumstances forced him to grow exponentially and face many difficulties head on. It has in ways honed his vision and drive, while keeping him grounded. He is still learning, learning and growing every day. Jason Lee of YMDH one to watch from Hong Kong.
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當個時尚的爸爸
要記錄當爸爸的興奮，每個人都有不同的記念方法，而Jason就成立了YMDH去記念女女的出生，希望孩子和品牌都可以一起健康的成長。同時照顧品牌和女女的Jason笑言感覺就像同時照顧兩個小孩子。「YMDH的全稱是You Make Daddy Happy, 寓意着我就是品牌的爸爸。我希望YMDH可以令我快樂，同時創作出一些為大家帶來歡樂的設計。對我而言 YMDH 更像一種精神；一種堅持、無限制的精神。YMDH這四個英文字母可以有𣎴同的組合，寄予不同的意義。」品牌的設計糅合西方街頭時裝的剪裁及中國歷史中不同的文化圖騰，是香港本地設計少見的概念。Jason表示，除了中式元素和香港文化之外，嘻哈文化（Hip Hop）也是他其中一個啟發的原素。「我對不同的街頭文化都很喜歡，不論是街頭的塗鴉、音樂、舞蹈都很感興趣。一些Rapper們說唱的音樂、精神和他們的衣著都深深的影響和改變了我。香港也有不少很好的Hip Hop 藝人例如JB，因為我覺得他的造型很具個人風格。事實上我們一直都想尋找具特色的素人合作，做文化上的交流。」
穿牛仔的香港大亨
當年除了Jason的「壓世樣」讓我難忘之外，還有他那闊袍大袖和「褲不過三代」塗鴉感的設計。一個個好似大宅門大老爺的衣服設計加上班指、牌匾等等…他就好像在打造一個香港大亨一樣。「我的設計很多是取材自古時中國的歷史服飾，所以剪裁上的一些細節，我們都是根據傳統再作改良，以符合現在社會的需求和美學。例如我們選用了牛仔布都是基於香港人很愛牛仔褲的情懷。當你在街頭走路時，不難發現身邊很多人都是穿着牛仔褲的，所以我就以牛仔作為常用的布料。如果你們仔細留意的話，其實除了牛仔布，我們所選用的布料都別有用心的。我們所選用的都是一些日本布料，它們的手感都是與眾不同，務求令大家有另一番的體驗。」
生於斯 長於斯
雖然Jason不少設計都是以中式元素作基礎，但其實除此之外，香港文化也是YMDH一個很大的視覺原素，「其實很多設計上的香港文化都是我個人喜好，我好希望可以把香港一些十分本土的文化透過我的設計讓不同地方的人認識到，更希望把YMDH 的歡樂傳到世界每一個角落。」雖然香港是個國際大城市，但不少本土文化對外國人而言還是個新鮮事。問及他會否擔心只有香港人才明白他的設計，他滿懷信心的這樣回答：「我認為不一定只有香港人才能夠明白。當然香港人會有份外的親切感，有時我們亦都會透過講解令更多不同種族的人明白到我們設計的心思。我覺得好的設計，必定會有懂欣賞的人明白到設計背後的意思。早前我有個設計是以已故藝術家「九龍皇帝」作靈感來源。表演過後，有些年青人透過我們的作品和表演認識到「九龍皇帝」的作品並對他的身平感到興趣。我想這絕對是一件很有意義的事，就好像把文化承傳，讓更多人認識到香港獨有的文化，很有使命感！」
同熱愛這篇土地
香港是個充滿不同文化的地方，正因大家都欣賞過其他已發展地方美麗的文化，我們本地人總是有點崇洋心理。講到這話題上Jason都有些見解，「換過角度來看香港人普遍都不支持香港人的，他們不懂得去欣賞香港的特色。這也可以解釋為什麼很難見到本地品牌用上本地面孔拍攝。」我讓喜歡香港文化的Jason講講他心中最完美的香港是怎樣並定義香港本土文化是什麼，「我心目中最完美的香港是一個充滿愛的城市。這個城市可以有很多包容和接納，充滿人情味，是一個中西文化匯集的地方。我覺得可以用陳冠希的歌曲「香港地」來總結什麼是香港文化就最適合不過。」不過現實中香港的時裝行業總是有很多抱怨和負面聲音，高租金和高成本讓不少人都對創立品牌卻步。不過Jason對這情況卻十分樂觀，「我認為每一個行業都會有面對的困難，最重要是行業能團結起來，互相支持，營做一個良好的氛圍。當然品牌也應該視野要廣闊一點，趨向國際化。」年紀輕輕的Jason便已經有個幸福家庭和成功的品牌，他說這讓他逼著自己去成長，面對不同的困難。他現在還在學習的階段，每天都在學習、不停的成長。這麼幸福的Jason現在應該不會再愁容滿面了。
Check out our interview with rapper Planet Asia here for all the goodness :
http://blog.spitgan.com/%e8%90%ac%e6%9c%89%e5%bc%95%e5%8a%9b-gravitational-pull-planet-asia-interview/
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