如水 / YELLOW IS THE NEW FREEDOM. HK DESIGNER, NECRO POON’S SS2020 COLLECTION


Know more about Necro Poon : @necro_poon
Photos : Nick D for @precursorprints

It’s dark backstage. It takes a few moments to piece together, but you can instantly tell there is a dark edge to Necro Poon’s new SS20 collection. Gathered together it looks a lot like the environment outside in Hong Kong today. ‘Yellow is the New Freedom’ is a collection powerfully charged. It couldn’t get more ‘street’ than this. A clever collection, nailed home with the pièce de résistance, a denim jacket with the signage, “Water is Shapeless. Water is Formless. Be Water, My Friend” stamped to the back.

Necro Poon是我們其中一個很喜歡的本地設計師。他的作品貼近社會時事,讓顧客和設計師充滿共鳴。今次他在Centrestage上的Fashionally.com 時裝表演中展示他最新的SS20系列,我們當然要捕捉一下在後台的情況啦!下面讓Necro告訴我們更多這個系列的靈感和故事呢!
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瘋世界中的瘋人物 10位THEi 時裝設計師的狂想設計 NEW DESIGNERS FROM HK SHOW THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT! THEi GRADUATION SHOW. PT3

Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translate : Lorien Chan

Continuing with the designer interviews, it is very impressive to hear that they also have a social conscious! From one of our favorite collections, Ms. Jasmine Leung, fashion designer, states, “During these 4 years of study in BA fashion, I realized how damaging fashion and garment-making is to the world. We, as the new generation of fashion creators, need to take action to make a change. Designing a sustainable fashion collection and eventually establishing a sustainable fashion brand are my goals.” 

Read Part 3, of inspirations, fashion designer favorites, and future plans! A heady mix of, ‘the simple life’, Zero Waste, love bonds, and America sports references.

繼續進行設計師訪談,設計師對社會問題的意識令人意想不到! 其中一個我們最喜歡的系列設計師Jasmine Leung說:「在BA時尚的這四年研究中,我意識到時裝和製衣業對環境多麼有害。我們作為新一代時裝創造者需要採取行動作出改變。設計可持續發展的時裝系列並最終建立可持續發展的時尚品牌是我的目標。」
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瘋世界中的瘋人物 10位THEi 時裝設計師的狂想設計 NEW DESIGNERS FROM HK SHOW THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT! THEi GRADUATION SHOW. PT2

Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translate : Lorien Chan

And we thought the fashion designs were impressive! Well we went a step further and asked the creative talents of the THEi 2019 Graduation Show to share with us what inspired their collections. In these interviews you will discover their fantasy escapisms, expressions of new beauty, and even dark, dark real life environments. An engrossing read, that confirms the youth have high concepts in their heads for social change, and a very grounded practicality.  As brief as the interviews are they also share secrets of techniques used in creating the garments you see, and  their future plans with us! Here is part 2 of 3.

既然我們覺得這些設計都令人印象深刻!那麼我們更進一步,找來10個今年畢業展中突出的設計師分享他們的故事。在這些答案中,你將發現他們逃避現實的幻想、對美麗的新定義什至最黑暗而真實的生活。這篇訪問將讓你看到年輕人在社會變革方面有很多高水準的概念。不長不短的訪談中,他們將分享你所看到的造型和未來的計劃。

Pls have a read of our introduction and show review here in Part 1.



Guan Yong Yi, Key // ‘Escaping’ Collection

SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎?你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Key : My theme is ‘Escaping’, which means escaping from the reality and dream, trying to break the rules. I used  blue and orange as my main colors. Blue and orange represent the cruel world, and the passion of our dreams respectively. The black color is the dust of world. 90% of the outfits are made by wool and polyester yarns. The knitting makes use of the technique, stroll and trill relief.

我的主題是’逃避’,這意味著逃避現實和夢想,試圖打破規則。然後我用藍色和橙色作為主色。藍色和橙色分別代表殘酷的世界和我們夢想的熱情。黑色作為世界的塵埃。整個裝備的90%由羊毛和滌綸紗線製成。漫步和顫音浮雕使用的針織。

SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是?
Key : My favorite fashion designer is Thom Browne. His design style has its own strong personality. I really appreciate his designs, which are very inspiring and a signature all his own.

我最喜歡的時裝設計師是Thom Browne,他的設計風格有他自己強烈的個性。我非常欣賞他的設計系列,這是非常鼓舞人心和標誌性的。

SP : What’s next for you?
Key : Being a fashion designer is the next step of my journey. After joining the Lenzing workshop, and Australia Merino wool trip, I am interested in knitwear now. I would like to expand my job’s scope, to include menswear and knitwear.

成為時裝設計師是我旅程的下一步。在加入Lenzing工作室和澳大利亞美利奴羊毛之旅後,我現在對針織品很感興趣。所以我想擴大我的工作品種,包括男裝和針織品。

Check out this fashion editorial shot in Shanghai featuring new Chinese fashion designers such as Pronounce, Ffixxed Studios, STR3AK Clothing and Garcon : 

風起了/ONE TYPHOON WON’T STOP THE PARTY. SHANGHAI LABEL, FASHION SHOWCASE



2. Law Wing Suen, Kimmy // ‘The War At Home’ Collection

SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎?你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Kimmy : This design is an attempt to give life to one of the darkest aspects of our society by portraying the cold, violent, and unachievable expectations of abusive homes.

The main material is organza and silk. It shows a slow and cold impression, like living under cold violence.

Slow materials combined with the borderless water-soluble sewing pattern. This reflects children living under pressure.

這種設計嘗試通過描繪對虐待性家園的冷漠,暴力和無法實現的期望,為社會最黑暗的方面之一賦予生命。

主要材料是透明硬紗和絲綢。它表現出一種緩慢而冷酷的印象,就像生活在寒冷的暴力之下一樣。

緩慢的材料與無序的水溶性縫紉圖案相結合。 它反映了生活在壓力下的兒童。

SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是?
Kimmy : Craig Green is my favorite fashion designer. His design is simple, but each garment and collection has a strong personal signature. Also, his collections use a creative display style and expressions in different media.

Craig Green是我最喜歡的時裝設計師。 他的設計很簡單,但每件服裝和系列都有自己的特色。此外,他的系列採用創意展示風格在不同媒體中展示。

SP : What’s next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃?
Kimmy : My future plan for the moment is to continue my learning career.

我現在的未來計劃是繼續我的學習生涯。

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瘋世界中的瘋人物 10位THEi 時裝設計師的狂想設計 NEW DESIGNERS FROM HK SHOW THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT! THEi GRADUATION SHOW. PT1



Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translation : Lorien Chan

SPITGAN有幸能夠採訪本地時尚人才 Jason Lee 關於他設計的工作絕對是個大開眼界的好機會。從觀賞的角度轉而為新時尚人才的發源,為時尚界帶來不可動搖的人才。在參加THEi畢業生時裝騷看到 Jason 的YMDH回顧展時,發現原來香港的新鮮血液已經嶄露頭角,為所有 Spot light 做好準備。隨著後台的顏色與舉動一一移置至前台成為焦點,今年的設計作品顯然擁立不少資深才掌舵。深刻的個人設計元素,過目驚人的原則展現,另一些則別具大膽的描繪及形態。不論是女裝或男裝同樣令人留下刻骨的印象。

Chinese after english // 中文譯本在英文之後

An eye opener. The opportunity to interview Hong Kong talent Jason Lee about his design work metastasized into an even greater bonanza for discovering new fashion talent. In attendance for the THEi graduate fashion show to check out the Jason’s YMDH retrospective, Hong Kong’s new blood was in the wings and ready for the spotlight. With the backstage color and action crystallizing into focus, this year’s designs crop clearly had some strong talents at the helm. Individual outfits impressed, some with striking restraint, and others with bold statements and form. Equally impressive we’re both womenswear and menswear.

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90後設計師 YMDH李居錡猛烈踫撞的本土文化. HONG KONG DESIGNER BRAND, YMDH, MIXES CHINESE AND WESTERN INFLUENCES FOR THAT STREETWEAR DRIP


採訪/Interview and writing : Lorien Chan
攝影/Photos : Nick D @precursorprints 

深入認識YMDH / Know more about YMDH here :  @ymdhstudio 

We first met Jason at his graduation show for the THEi institute in 2016. I recall on his face a deep disappointment and sadness. What were the emotions running through him at that time? Did something happen backstage? This image of him and his show music will be forever etched in my memory. After the Hong Kong YDC competition that year, Jason started his own label, YMDH. He seemed be well on his way to success with a cross-over shoe and bag collection with Hong Kong retailer I.T. called “I Go To School By Bus”. This project gave him a lot of exposure, and people in the fashion industry, and media took notice of this new fashion designer in Hong Kong. Due to the small nature of the fashion circle in Hong Kong we are fortunate to run into Jason from time to time, always with the intention of doing a formal interview. With an opportunity of a YMDH collective show, it was finally the right time!

第一次見李居錡(Jason Lee)是在Thei的畢業時裝表演舞台上,每個設計師雖然緊張但面上都藏不住內心的興奮。綵排時唯獨Jason一個人滿面愁容,我不知道那是他天然的「壓世樣」還是有什麼事在後台發生了,但這個奇怪的表情加上他選用的音樂讓我忘不了這個設計師。那次之後我一直想跟他做個訪問,解開我心中的迷團。YDC之後他在2018年成立了自家品牌YMDH,並與ITHK合作推出了一個聯乘鞋袋配飾的系列叫 “ I Go To School By Bus ”。這個合作讓他得到了不少的曝光率,令到時裝業界和傳媒認識到這個新晉時裝設計師。相隔幾年之後,這個訪問終於做到了。

< < Chinese continued after English below >>


READ THE FULL ARTICLE ON HONG KONG FASHION TALENT, YMDH CONTINUED HERE :

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