瘋世界中的瘋人物 10位THEi 時裝設計師的狂想設計 NEW DESIGNERS FROM HK SHOW THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT! THEi GRADUATION SHOW. PT3

Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translate : Lorien Chan

Continuing with the designer interviews, it is very impressive to hear that they also have a social conscious! From one of our favorite collections, Ms. Jasmine Leung, fashion designer, states, “During these 4 years of study in BA fashion, I realized how damaging fashion and garment-making is to the world. We, as the new generation of fashion creators, need to take action to make a change. Designing a sustainable fashion collection and eventually establishing a sustainable fashion brand are my goals.” 

Read Part 3, of inspirations, fashion designer favorites, and future plans! A heady mix of, ‘the simple life’, Zero Waste, love bonds, and America sports references.

繼續進行設計師訪談,設計師對社會問題的意識令人意想不到! 其中一個我們最喜歡的系列設計師Jasmine Leung說:「在BA時尚的這四年研究中,我意識到時裝和製衣業對環境多麼有害。我們作為新一代時裝創造者需要採取行動作出改變。設計可持續發展的時裝系列並最終建立可持續發展的時尚品牌是我的目標。」
Read More

瘋世界中的瘋人物 10位THEi 時裝設計師的狂想設計 NEW DESIGNERS FROM HK SHOW THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT! THEi GRADUATION SHOW. PT2

Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translate : Lorien Chan

And we thought the fashion designs were impressive! Well we went a step further and asked the creative talents of the THEi 2019 Graduation Show to share with us what inspired their collections. In these interviews you will discover their fantasy escapisms, expressions of new beauty, and even dark, dark real life environments. An engrossing read, that confirms the youth have high concepts in their heads for social change, and a very grounded practicality.  As brief as the interviews are they also share secrets of techniques used in creating the garments you see, and  their future plans with us! Here is part 2 of 3.

既然我們覺得這些設計都令人印象深刻!那麼我們更進一步,找來10個今年畢業展中突出的設計師分享他們的故事。在這些答案中,你將發現他們逃避現實的幻想、對美麗的新定義什至最黑暗而真實的生活。這篇訪問將讓你看到年輕人在社會變革方面有很多高水準的概念。不長不短的訪談中,他們將分享你所看到的造型和未來的計劃。

Pls have a read of our introduction and show review here in Part 1.



Guan Yong Yi, Key // ‘Escaping’ Collection

SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎?你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Key : My theme is ‘Escaping’, which means escaping from the reality and dream, trying to break the rules. I used  blue and orange as my main colors. Blue and orange represent the cruel world, and the passion of our dreams respectively. The black color is the dust of world. 90% of the outfits are made by wool and polyester yarns. The knitting makes use of the technique, stroll and trill relief.

我的主題是’逃避’,這意味著逃避現實和夢想,試圖打破規則。然後我用藍色和橙色作為主色。藍色和橙色分別代表殘酷的世界和我們夢想的熱情。黑色作為世界的塵埃。整個裝備的90%由羊毛和滌綸紗線製成。漫步和顫音浮雕使用的針織。

SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是?
Key : My favorite fashion designer is Thom Browne. His design style has its own strong personality. I really appreciate his designs, which are very inspiring and a signature all his own.

我最喜歡的時裝設計師是Thom Browne,他的設計風格有他自己強烈的個性。我非常欣賞他的設計系列,這是非常鼓舞人心和標誌性的。

SP : What’s next for you?
Key : Being a fashion designer is the next step of my journey. After joining the Lenzing workshop, and Australia Merino wool trip, I am interested in knitwear now. I would like to expand my job’s scope, to include menswear and knitwear.

成為時裝設計師是我旅程的下一步。在加入Lenzing工作室和澳大利亞美利奴羊毛之旅後,我現在對針織品很感興趣。所以我想擴大我的工作品種,包括男裝和針織品。

Check out this fashion editorial shot in Shanghai featuring new Chinese fashion designers such as Pronounce, Ffixxed Studios, STR3AK Clothing and Garcon : 

風起了/ONE TYPHOON WON’T STOP THE PARTY. SHANGHAI LABEL, FASHION SHOWCASE



2. Law Wing Suen, Kimmy // ‘The War At Home’ Collection

SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎?你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Kimmy : This design is an attempt to give life to one of the darkest aspects of our society by portraying the cold, violent, and unachievable expectations of abusive homes.

The main material is organza and silk. It shows a slow and cold impression, like living under cold violence.

Slow materials combined with the borderless water-soluble sewing pattern. This reflects children living under pressure.

這種設計嘗試通過描繪對虐待性家園的冷漠,暴力和無法實現的期望,為社會最黑暗的方面之一賦予生命。

主要材料是透明硬紗和絲綢。它表現出一種緩慢而冷酷的印象,就像生活在寒冷的暴力之下一樣。

緩慢的材料與無序的水溶性縫紉圖案相結合。 它反映了生活在壓力下的兒童。

SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是?
Kimmy : Craig Green is my favorite fashion designer. His design is simple, but each garment and collection has a strong personal signature. Also, his collections use a creative display style and expressions in different media.

Craig Green是我最喜歡的時裝設計師。 他的設計很簡單,但每件服裝和系列都有自己的特色。此外,他的系列採用創意展示風格在不同媒體中展示。

SP : What’s next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃?
Kimmy : My future plan for the moment is to continue my learning career.

我現在的未來計劃是繼續我的學習生涯。

Read More

瘋世界中的瘋人物 10位THEi 時裝設計師的狂想設計 NEW DESIGNERS FROM HK SHOW THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT! THEi GRADUATION SHOW. PT1



Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translation : Lorien Chan

SPITGAN有幸能夠採訪本地時尚人才 Jason Lee 關於他設計的工作絕對是個大開眼界的好機會。從觀賞的角度轉而為新時尚人才的發源,為時尚界帶來不可動搖的人才。在參加THEi畢業生時裝騷看到 Jason 的YMDH回顧展時,發現原來香港的新鮮血液已經嶄露頭角,為所有 Spot light 做好準備。隨著後台的顏色與舉動一一移置至前台成為焦點,今年的設計作品顯然擁立不少資深才掌舵。深刻的個人設計元素,過目驚人的原則展現,另一些則別具大膽的描繪及形態。不論是女裝或男裝同樣令人留下刻骨的印象。

Chinese after english // 中文譯本在英文之後

An eye opener. The opportunity to interview Hong Kong talent Jason Lee about his design work metastasized into an even greater bonanza for discovering new fashion talent. In attendance for the THEi graduate fashion show to check out the Jason’s YMDH retrospective, Hong Kong’s new blood was in the wings and ready for the spotlight. With the backstage color and action crystallizing into focus, this year’s designs crop clearly had some strong talents at the helm. Individual outfits impressed, some with striking restraint, and others with bold statements and form. Equally impressive we’re both womenswear and menswear.

Read More

蘇州獅子林的貝聿銘 享譽世界的設計大師. THE WORLD’S TALLEST MAN. I. M. PEI. OUR FAVORITE WORKS AND QUOTES FROM THE MASTER.

中文撰文/Chinese written by : Lorien Chan

「舉止溫和、品位高雅」這是為貝聿銘撰寫傳記的作家坎奈爾對他的印象。他就好像披著文化的神聖斗篷,彷佛意味著,我是如此高貴的華人,你們這些野蠻人永遠無法理解。大半生都居於美國的他曾表示,即使在美國住了七、八十年,「仍然覺得自己是中國人」。被譽為「現代派設計大師」的他出生在動盪不安的時代。1917年在廣州出生時中國處於積弱又飽受欺凌的年代,1935年前往美國攻讀建築學時正值日本全面侵華的前夕,到他學成想回國的時候,中國正飽受蹂躪,有家歸不得。

貝聿銘的創作一直堅持「讓光線來作設計」,貫徹將建築融合自然的空間觀念,設計出無數震撼世界的建築。他的建築風格,有著西方的現代風格,也融入東方幾何美學。而這與他小時候的生活經歷,有著極大的關係。貝聿銘的家族是中國蘇州望族,父親貝祖詒是上海商業銀行的其中一個始創人。每逢暑假,貝聿銘會回到蘇州,與堂兄弟們在自家園林「獅子林」玩耍,而蘇州庭園也因此成為貝聿銘最重要的兒時記憶之一。下面盤點我們最喜歡的作品:

Why speak about the Pritzker Prize winning architect, I. M. Pei? Well if you live in Hong Kong for one, you cannot escape his indelible imprint on our landscape. I. M. Pei’s work is iconic, and this is the dude that designed the Rock And Roll Hall of Fame! Don’t be dismissing this Chinese cat, he’s a star amongst stars. A Chinese man that built the structure that will recognize music’s all time greats? What are the designs that let to this commission? What other brilliance did he produce? We investigate his extensive portfolio and share with you what we discovered, and appreciated as his best above all. Born in Guangzhou, raised in Hong Kong and Shanghai, university at MIT, I. M. Pei felt like an outsider to both East and West. His indomitable spirit had him living to a healthy age of 102. Recognize.



日本美秀美術館 MIHO MUSEUM

「成為最好,卻無需一定要原創。//Be the best, not necessarily the original. 」






在設計美秀美術館時,他到訪了美術館的選址,那趟旅程讓他想起了兒時讀過陶淵明的《桃花源記》。於是這個美術館便還原了陶淵明的世外桃源。座落山中的美秀美術館要通過入口廣場的隧道和吊橋才能到達藏身於樹林中的美術館。隧道前栽種了夾道的櫻花,跟《桃花源記》情景互相呼應,燈光幽暗的隧道,就如漁夫穿越山洞之後,豁然開朗,置身另一境界。

From his first site visit I. M. Pei declared the area to be Shangri-La. He based the museum’s design on the Chinese story of, “The Peach Blossom Valley”. A tale of a fisherman who rows up a mountain stream and comes across a peach orchard in full bloom. Crossing to the end of the orchard he notices a ray of light illuminating a small cave at the base of the mountain. Entering the cave and travelling through it, the cave reveals the entrance and splendid view of Shangri-la before him.

True to the story, you must climb a sloped path lined by trees, pass through a stunning tunnel, and cross a bridge to find the Miho Museum. I. M. Pei captures that moment where the fisherman suddenly see Shangri-la in his design brilliantly. An emotive piece of architecture!

The Miho Museum also has a fashion connection with Louis Vuitton choosing to show it’s Cruise 2018 collection on its property! Check the video here :
https://youtu.be/UzIUQeoG-NQ

SEE MORE OF I. M. PEI’S WORK, AND SNAPPY WORDS CONTINUED BELOW :

Read More

CHRISTOPHER KANE FW18 SANDALS

最近大家都應該很小留意CHRISTOPHER KANE吧,雖然我記得這幾季我都有寫過他們的鞋子,但rtw的設計卻一直平平無奇。今季情況依然,同樣是以鞋子跑出。不過這個年代講求銷量多於一切吧!鞋、包、首飾才是大家的重點?