瘋世界中的瘋人物 10位THEi 時裝設計師的狂想設計 NEW DESIGNERS FROM HK SHOW THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT! THEi GRADUATION SHOW. PT2

Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translate : Lorien Chan

And we thought the fashion designs were impressive! Well we went a step further and asked the creative talents of the THEi 2019 Graduation Show to share with us what inspired their collections. In these interviews you will discover their fantasy escapisms, expressions of new beauty, and even dark, dark real life environments. An engrossing read, that confirms the youth have high concepts in their heads for social change, and a very grounded practicality.  As brief as the interviews are they also share secrets of techniques used in creating the garments you see, and  their future plans with us! Here is part 2 of 3.

既然我們覺得這些設計都令人印象深刻!那麼我們更進一步,找來10個今年畢業展中突出的設計師分享他們的故事。在這些答案中,你將發現他們逃避現實的幻想、對美麗的新定義什至最黑暗而真實的生活。這篇訪問將讓你看到年輕人在社會變革方面有很多高水準的概念。不長不短的訪談中,他們將分享你所看到的造型和未來的計劃。

Pls have a read of our introduction and show review here in Part 1.



Guan Yong Yi, Key // ‘Escaping’ Collection

SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎?你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Key : My theme is ‘Escaping’, which means escaping from the reality and dream, trying to break the rules. I used  blue and orange as my main colors. Blue and orange represent the cruel world, and the passion of our dreams respectively. The black color is the dust of world. 90% of the outfits are made by wool and polyester yarns. The knitting makes use of the technique, stroll and trill relief.

我的主題是’逃避’,這意味著逃避現實和夢想,試圖打破規則。然後我用藍色和橙色作為主色。藍色和橙色分別代表殘酷的世界和我們夢想的熱情。黑色作為世界的塵埃。整個裝備的90%由羊毛和滌綸紗線製成。漫步和顫音浮雕使用的針織。

SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是?
Key : My favorite fashion designer is Thom Browne. His design style has its own strong personality. I really appreciate his designs, which are very inspiring and a signature all his own.

我最喜歡的時裝設計師是Thom Browne,他的設計風格有他自己強烈的個性。我非常欣賞他的設計系列,這是非常鼓舞人心和標誌性的。

SP : What’s next for you?
Key : Being a fashion designer is the next step of my journey. After joining the Lenzing workshop, and Australia Merino wool trip, I am interested in knitwear now. I would like to expand my job’s scope, to include menswear and knitwear.

成為時裝設計師是我旅程的下一步。在加入Lenzing工作室和澳大利亞美利奴羊毛之旅後,我現在對針織品很感興趣。所以我想擴大我的工作品種,包括男裝和針織品。

Check out this fashion editorial shot in Shanghai featuring new Chinese fashion designers such as Pronounce, Ffixxed Studios, STR3AK Clothing and Garcon : 

風起了/ONE TYPHOON WON’T STOP THE PARTY. SHANGHAI LABEL, FASHION SHOWCASE



2. Law Wing Suen, Kimmy // ‘The War At Home’ Collection

SP : The design piece in the picture . Can you pls describe it. Your inspiration for this piece and the materials used. // 你可以說一下這相中作品嗎?你的主題、靈感和用上的物料等。
Kimmy : This design is an attempt to give life to one of the darkest aspects of our society by portraying the cold, violent, and unachievable expectations of abusive homes.

The main material is organza and silk. It shows a slow and cold impression, like living under cold violence.

Slow materials combined with the borderless water-soluble sewing pattern. This reflects children living under pressure.

這種設計嘗試通過描繪對虐待性家園的冷漠,暴力和無法實現的期望,為社會最黑暗的方面之一賦予生命。

主要材料是透明硬紗和絲綢。它表現出一種緩慢而冷酷的印象,就像生活在寒冷的暴力之下一樣。

緩慢的材料與無序的水溶性縫紉圖案相結合。 它反映了生活在壓力下的兒童。

SP : Your favorite Fashion Designer. // 最喜歡的設計師是?
Kimmy : Craig Green is my favorite fashion designer. His design is simple, but each garment and collection has a strong personal signature. Also, his collections use a creative display style and expressions in different media.

Craig Green是我最喜歡的時裝設計師。 他的設計很簡單,但每件服裝和系列都有自己的特色。此外,他的系列採用創意展示風格在不同媒體中展示。

SP : What’s next for you? // 接下來有什麼計劃?
Kimmy : My future plan for the moment is to continue my learning career.

我現在的未來計劃是繼續我的學習生涯。

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WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK FW18 MEN’S WEAR

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK是我在整季FW18的男裝中最想獨立談及的品牌,最初其實我只是想寫他們的太陽眼鏡而已…第一眼看到這個牌子我用了好一陣去研究發音哈哈,然後我發現他有點像一個香港品牌SUN=SEN。在講時裝之前一定要講講他們的網站,我最初還以為是有個什麼青年慈善機構或是保護兒童的組織跟他們撞名。從這裡你已經知道這品牌有多貪玩了吧?WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK的設計你可以見到身邊一切的事物都是能啟發他的材料:洗碗手套、魚網絲襪、封箱膠紙、避彈衣……當整個身體都被這些誇張又奇怪的東西包圍的時候,居然又有幾個小孔露三點。奇怪吧?但又奇怪地吸引著我了。大概我也很奇怪?

攝影/ Photo by : Ronald Stoops, courtesy of WVB, Nicky Zeng.

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A.W.A.K.E. SS18 WOMEN’S WEAR

A.W.A.K.E.最近幾季我們都在留意著他,我記得早幾季他們的顏色、剪裁都有很多種,當時的設計是欠缺一種風格的。到今季的時候,58套造型可能說是驚喜不斷。用色比以往少了但衣服的輪廓變得明顯起來,他們說Alaverdian是另一位重建主義者。的確她很多的設計其實是以男裝作藍本,然後大膽地重新建構他的作品。不規則不合身的剪裁、傾斜的裙邊、雙排鈕扣和超級OVERSIZE……雖然用上灰、白等比較平靜的顏色,但這不代表Alaverdian就是一個平靜的人。從帽子後面突然的面具看來,她腦海中異想天開的東西還多著呢!


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