毒品/FW2014 高级定制回顾/FW2014 COUTURE REVIEW

值得庆幸的是FW2014高级定制还算短暂。参与的品牌设计范围从巧思概念,到随机甚至丑陋。总体而言,令人大失所望。大多数品牌看起来或是平白无趣,或是半生不熟。同时,我们也注意到了最近许多日装/运动装的蠕变,令成衣收藏和高级女装之间的界限开始变得模糊。最值得瞩目的大约是 Victor & Rolf所打造的“穿着红毯”, Giambattista Valli也不错,而时装新手Hussein Chalayan则与Vionnet时装屋携手,杀出自己的一条血路。许多品牌的系列单品都超过50件以上,无意不在各位脑子画下一个巨大的问好,这有必要吗?以下是我们按字母顺序排列的视觉回顾。嗨呀!

Thankfully FW2014 Couture was brief. Of the brands that participated, the designs ranged from cleverly conceptual, to random and hideous. Overall a big disappointment. Most labels looked uninspired or half-cooked. We’ve also noticed a lot of daywear/sportswear creep in lately which is beginning to blur the lines between ready-to-wear collections and haute couture. A tip of the hat goes to Victor & Rolf for their cheeky execution of ‘wearing a red carpet’, Giambattista Valli did something, and Hussein Chalayan, couture newbie, popped his cherry with Vionnet. A lot of brands came with well over 50 pieces per collection, also composing the question in one’s mind, is it needed? See our visual review in alphabetical order below. Hiyah!

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Alexis Mabille Couture FW14

ARMANIPRIVE_FW14COUTURE

Armani Prive Couture FW14

ATELIERVERSACE_FW14COUTURE

Atelier Versace Couture FW14

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Chanel Couture FW14

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Christian Dior Couture FW14

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Elie Saab Couture FW14

GIAMBATTISTAVALLI_FW14COUTURE

Giambattista Valli Couture FW14

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Maison Martin Margiela Couture FW14

SCHIAPARELLI_FW14COUTURE

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毒品/ PATTA X CARHARTT WIP FW2014

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接近季末的时候出现了不少有趣的作品。但说真得,它们来的相当及时,做出来的时候正符合穿着的时节与条件。我说的就是PATTA X CARHARTT WIP。该系列比较保守,并没有新颖的剪裁来推进设计。口号是!哦,哦,哦,打住!有时候许多细节很容易被忽视。终于发现了症结所在! “Wild at Hartt(错拼)’? 靠!这算不算专利呢!看起来任何品牌总监都能够由秀场回归到绘图板上。

Some interesting projects coming out late this season. Really though, they right on time, and ready to be worn in the weather and conditions they were made for. Patta X Carhartt WIP here. The collection is capsule, and there really are no new silhouettes that push the design forward. The slogan though! Oh oh oh, pause! Sometimes stuff just gets overlooked. That’s the lic right there! ‘Wild at Hartt’?! Dammmn! Patent that ish! Get you some! Kudo’s! Any brand manager can pick there dentals up off the floor and go back to the drawing board.

在亚洲各地I.T.专卖店有售。Available at I.T. stores across Asia.

時裝片/FASHION FILM : 回归,CHANEL/THE RETURN, CHANEL.

1953年12月,在销声匿迹了15年后,Coco Chanel小姐又重新回归到时尚的舞台。然而法国媒体却以冰冷与沉默迎接该重归系列。只有美国媒体对Chanel的风格给予了支持并定义了Chanel的重生。这部由Karl Lagerfeld执导的电影重述这个故事。

In December 1953, Coco Chanel returned to design after a fifteen year absence. The collection is welcomed by the French press with an icy silence. Only the American media supports the looks that define the rebirth of Chanel’s style. This film by Karl Lagerfeld retells the story.

放音樂/MUSIC IS PLAYING. SHARON CHIU, FASHION DIRECTOR, NUMERO CHINA.

今個月我們請來法國著名時裝雜誌”NUMERO”中文版的時裝總監Sharon Chiu為Spitgan讀者帶來她的音樂playlist。Sharon從少便熱愛時裝,時裝以外,音樂是她的第二至愛,音樂為她在造型創作上帶來不少靈感。今次她為我們推介的音樂以黑人音樂居多,而且很多都是多年前的作品,因為對她來說,音樂就像時裝般,昔日的比今日的更有靈魂。這亦是她喜愛古著的原因。

除了是雜誌時裝總監,Sharon亦是一名資深的造型師及作者,她的時裝作品可於www.mfaa.asia看到。

Oh yeah ya don’t stop. The music keeps playing the records keep spinning. This month we are pleased to welcome Ms. Sharon Chiu, top stylist and fashion director of Numero China to our exalted alumni of SPITGAN selectors. Sharon is one of China’s most creative and inventive stylists working today.

Her work can be seen on the pages of Numero China as well as : http://www.mfaa.asia/sharon/styling.html#1

Marvin Gaye – Mercy Mercy Me

In China :

http://v.yinyuetai.com/video/243186

毒品/SAINT LAURENT FW2014 男装广告/SAINT LAURENT FW2014 MEN’S AD CAMPAIGN

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不可思议,直到现在我们才谈到到Hedi Slimane的摄影。那风格无论何时都是一眼就能分辨出的,这一季的秋冬男装广告为我们展现了众多的冒险的视角与瞬间。常规的构图被更广阔而大气的镜头取代,而仔细观察,更像是即兴地抓拍。在画面中的,一如既往是Slimane的酷酷的主角与摇滚元素。

Surprised its taken ’til now for us to mention Hedi Slimane’s photography. While its instantly recognizable, this season’s FW campaign for men drew us in with more adventurous angles and moments. The usual formal croppings were replaced by wider atmospheric shots, and closer, seemingly off the cuff moments. Still in the picture are Slimane’s cool subjects and rock and roll chic.

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