時裝片/FASHION FILM : HAIR, RAG & BONE

Insight into a man’s particulars about hair. Yes we got ’em too ladies! Directed by John Turturro no less! Some great banter and barbershop talk here, good for a few chuckles. Rag & Bone ups the ante! Well done!

SPITGAN! GOSHA RUBCHINSKIY MENS SS17

So Gosha, straight up, how old are these boys? Jesus. Aight. Some reference to a guy called Pasolini, a Communist, who inspired this collection. These kids are more a reference to said cat’s teenage lover, or 17 year-old hustler that confessed to his murder. Boys look like they about to enter their teens not in it. Twisted. The clothes are otherwise some overpriced sportwear fair for a new generation that has never seen it before. Track pants and blazers, that these pubescent soccer hooligans like to wear. Collabs with Italian brands, Fila, Kappa, and Sergio Tacchini, the hipster is now a Gino. It’s all good these days. Viva la Fuccboi!

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HKDI FASHION DESIGN GRADUATION SHOW PT.3

Of course a great effort was put forth, without a doubt. Upon closer inspection I feel there was strong innovation from the textile designs, which might have gone unnoticed by most. It was dissappointing to see that my favorite 2 collections also did not make the graduate show. I guess why we are the critics and they are the professors! Regardless best of luck in the near future to the class of 17 and may your creativity compel you to success! SPITGAN is watching!

不過實際上,我對作品卻有一絲失望。主要是每個系列都太過相似,用色偏暗、Layer的造型、西服外套..有一兩個系列我寧願將他們結合為一組。雖然如此,有三個系列也倒是很有趣的。

第一個是Dale To的Moth,雪紡印上橫間,透視入面的直間恤衫,從而產生少許模糊的視覺效果。拼接格仔和和直間的上衣產生對比,看久了可能會有點頭暈,哈哈!另一個是Fa Leung的Conceal掩飾。如果你當日在場,肯定記得頭頂燈罩的這個系列。我特別喜歡他重新演譯了日本和服的感覺,由其那對「4腳鞋」。還有一個John Ng的Mismatch。將西裝當下身或許是個old story,但我喜歡再加上超高腰吊帶褲的男子,好像英國那些年老紳士般,高貴、成熟、優雅。特別一提他用的布料品質很好,是眾多系列中最讓我留意到的。

也許DI的作品未必是最令我驚訝的創作,但他們的作品可穿程度較高,品質也不錯。他們雖然少了一份天馬行空的奇想,卻多了一份踏實穩重。我想這個是兩個Style的學院風格吧!

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CALI DREAMING WOMEN’S SWIMWEAR

天然和裸色的泳衣是Cali Dreaming的icon。他們的設計線條都十分簡單,基本上你可以利用他這一套泳衣配搭出屬於你的風格。加上面料輕巧,裸色的泳衣就像第二層皮膚,非常容易穿戴。自然、輕鬆就是我看到這些泳衣時,聯想起的關鍵字。想像到我可以在放假時穿上他們的泳衣,盡情地be yourself!

撰文 Article/ Jose chu
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BALENCIAGA PRE-FALL 2017 WOMEN’S WEAR

Balenciaga的無數創新,被當代的Christian Dior所稱之為“我們所有人的主人”,Cristóbal Balenciaga靜靜地完成了自己的革命,並在他逝世40多年的時間裡始終保持著永恆的啟發。

在2017,從他創作的經典造型中汲取靈感,「Ikea 致敬袋」為其經典揭開新一頁。今季,當中以超巨型的羽絨外套最為搶眼!圖案方面在構思造型設計的過程中用碰撞拼接印花,包括了條紋 與 70 年代的多元混搭風圖案,加上打結的頭巾造型,復古感覺更重。今季tote bag 設計重點就是永恆的簡約!結合復古與創新的新一頁。

攝影 Photo From /Courtesy of Balenciaga
撰文 Article From / Samson Ng
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