街霸/STREET KNOWLEDGE. PAUL MITTLEMAN

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採訪:SPITZ
撰文:ESSY CHIU

Paul Mittleman是Adidas Original的全球設計總監,在還未加盟Adidas之前,他在Stussy工作了二十個年頭。來自紐約的他,見證了從1980年代開始運動品牌影響街頭文化,及到今日又怎樣影響著高級時裝的歲月,他可說是collaboration(品牌與品牌之間的計劃)的先鋒,在街牌界中有著一定的影響力。早前他去到上海出席當地的一個大型街頭品牌活動, 我們籍著這個機會與他做了一個訪問。

Street Cred? All hail. Paul Mittleman hasn’t just been holding down the spot for streetwear; he might have damn near pioneered the genre. Paul goes back to the early days of Stussy. One of the first recruits to the legendary brand that birthed so many others. The native New Yorker has moved on up, and sideways, and now sits with the illustrious title of, ‘Global Design Director’, for the behemoth that is Adidas. Adidas Originals to be exact. So you know they’ve tapped him for his savvy in the game. We had a chance to sit down with the self-proclaimed, ‘inventor of the collaboration’, himself, and go through a bit of streetwear anthology with a fella that was involved with it from the giddy-up.

( English continued after CN )

SPITGAN – 可否說說你的背景。
PAUL MITTLEMAN – 在Adidas Original之前,我曾是Stussy的創意總監, 在那裡工作已有二十年,我可以說是首幾位發明了Collaboration的人。我之前沒有想過會成為Adidas的全球設計總監,所有事情都是很自然發生的,對我來說每天的工作都是一種挑戰。

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閒聊/IN DIRECT CONVERSATION. DERRICK ROSE, CHICAGO BULLS

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SPITGAN- 你前臂上紋的中文字有什麼意思嗎?

德里克·羅斯- 忍耐

SPITGAN – The Chinese letters on your forearm. What do they mean?

Derrick Rose – Patience.

Photo : Essy Chiu

毒品/ADIDAS X RUN DMC

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RUN DMC在Hip Hop和潮流界有舉足輕重的地位,有很多的創作都成為了經典,而Adidas也早就找來RUN DMC聯手打造潮品。RUN DMC厲害到假如他們在糖果紙上印名字,SPITGAN也必定會報導。 可惜,如果你擁有或者只是最近見過任何一件OG系列,你就會發現它不如想象般出色。就連紀念JMJ的shell toes sneakers 都在細節上加添了新心思,例如在鞋帶加上Hip Hop經典金項鍊dookey chain和鞋舌上的燙字。

這次2013的新演繹的變化不大。鞋子並不十分突出,基本上是像涼鞋一樣直接套上就走的設計,有點經典的「無鞋帶」RUN DMC鞋影子;系列其它的產品則印有較普通單調的印刷圖案。我們沒有實物試穿,所以無法告訴實質的穿後感。要是你衣櫃裡暫時還沒有一件RUN DMC的潮品,你或許可以趁今季買來穿穿,順便向RUN DMC致敬吧。讓我們一起希望這系列會帶著更多精彩的設計回歸。

If RUN DMC put their name on a candy wrapper SPITGAN would cover it. What these guys did for Hip Hop and style is classic in itself. Good on Adidas for recognizing early on. The OG collections, without a doubt, are some of the illest pieces if you have them, or can find them now. Even the JMJ memorial shell toes were something fresh, with dope little details like the dookey chain on the laces and his grill on the tongue.

This 2013 re-interpretation is what it is. The kicks are sly. Basically slip ons, so they give off the appearance of the classic RUN DMC ‘no laces’ look, but the rest of the collection is a bunch of screen printed basics. We haven’t had the chance to personally try on the cuts, so no comment. If you don’t have a RUN DMC piece in your wardrobe maybe the time is now. Here’s to hoping this collection is back, and some bombastic ideas are in the queue.

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毒品/ADIDAS FLIP FLOPS

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真聰明!你又知我今天想著拖鞋。對啦!夏天來臨,炎熱的天氣不得不使我們穿得清涼點,這雙拖鞋不論搭配短襪,或只穿它,這都是今季的獨特的圖案及顏色。那你今季的拖鞋是怎麼呢?

Thanks buddy! You read my mind. How did you know I was thinking about trading in my kicks for a pair of flip flops today? Yeah its summer and this weather calls for some maxin’ and relaxin’. Whether you pair it with some tube socks or just as is, this flavorful pattern plus color way has got it going on for 2013.

毒品/OPENING CEREMONY X ADIDAS FW13

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在大家的印象中Adidas只是一個運動品牌?! 它不只是一運動品牌,它有不同合作的副線,如Adidas by Stella McCartney, Adidas X Jeremy Scott, Y-3…,,而The new Opening Ceremony X Adidas亦是其合作副線之一。看到這季2013FW秋冬系列十分喜愛,尢其是其印花圖案和顏色搭配,令人另眼相看。這季它們用了攀登作主題,表示有趣及年輕,而看到每件衣服的搭配性很高,可以搭配出不同的個性和感覺。

One thing Adidas does really well is the fashion collaboration. The new Opening Ceremony X Adidas line for FW13 is no exception. In fact, it has only improved. Really liking the patterns and color palettes. The climbing theme is nicely incorporated, the men’s high top looks fresh, and the panelled quilting pieces seem versatile in many a mix and match situation. Get yours.

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