薄紗、歐根紗,那些輕得輕輕一吹便會隨風游走的布料,繡上了神秘的一些紋路。未必是花、也未必有一個實際意讓形態。但起碼Armani帶出了一個像謎語的系列讓我思考一下。這種神秘極之性感。對了,一開始幾條褲子也讓我思考了一陣,男裝剪裁的褲子在女模身上充滿剛陽味。和上身deep v的西裝是兩種不同感覺,但加起來居然溫和得很是舒服。
毒品/FALL 2015 COUTURE HIGHLIGHTS
This season’s couture was like the planets had aligned. Most collections were good and more than a few were exceptional! Here are our highlights for your viewing pleasure in alphabetical order not by rank. For reals it gets better the deeper you go!
Alberta Ferretti Couture Fall 2015
Alexandre Vauthier Couture Fall 2015
Alexis Mabille Couture Fall 2015
Armani Prive Couture Fall 2015
毒品/FW2014 高级定制回顾/FW2014 COUTURE REVIEW
值得庆幸的是FW2014高级定制还算短暂。参与的品牌设计范围从巧思概念,到随机甚至丑陋。总体而言,令人大失所望。大多数品牌看起来或是平白无趣,或是半生不熟。同时,我们也注意到了最近许多日装/运动装的蠕变,令成衣收藏和高级女装之间的界限开始变得模糊。最值得瞩目的大约是 Victor & Rolf所打造的“穿着红毯”, Giambattista Valli也不错,而时装新手Hussein Chalayan则与Vionnet时装屋携手,杀出自己的一条血路。许多品牌的系列单品都超过50件以上,无意不在各位脑子画下一个巨大的问好,这有必要吗?以下是我们按字母顺序排列的视觉回顾。嗨呀!
Thankfully FW2014 Couture was brief. Of the brands that participated, the designs ranged from cleverly conceptual, to random and hideous. Overall a big disappointment. Most labels looked uninspired or half-cooked. We’ve also noticed a lot of daywear/sportswear creep in lately which is beginning to blur the lines between ready-to-wear collections and haute couture. A tip of the hat goes to Victor & Rolf for their cheeky execution of ‘wearing a red carpet’, Giambattista Valli did something, and Hussein Chalayan, couture newbie, popped his cherry with Vionnet. A lot of brands came with well over 50 pieces per collection, also composing the question in one’s mind, is it needed? See our visual review in alphabetical order below. Hiyah!
Alexis Mabille Couture FW14
Armani Prive Couture FW14
Atelier Versace Couture FW14
Chanel Couture FW14
Christian Dior Couture FW14
Elie Saab Couture FW14
Giambattista Valli Couture FW14
Maison Martin Margiela Couture FW14