十件不是人穿的COUTURE . HUMANLY IMPOSSIBLE COUTURE PIECES. THE BEST OF COUTURE FW19

Written by : Monique Ying @monying_my

2019 couture 的伸展台是一埸狂歡盛宴。經過一系列的研究,我發現了一個很有趣的現象 – 現時很多設計師(e.g. Elie Saab) 開始探索世界各文族的文化,有中國的、日本的、非洲文族的,還有摩洛哥的。 設計師們對這些文化的了解愈來愈成熟,亦為我們正名。 Christian Dior, Givenchy, Valentino等大牌子以它們的超凡作品證明了創意與靈感永遠也不會消逝,同時亦表現了它們將永遠推翻時裝定義的精神。

排除高級定製時裝週的精彩細節,以下是我於2019秋季couture中十件最喜歡的作品。

2019 couture runway truly is a blast. After some decent research, I found that it is interesting a lot of designers such as Elie Saap are trying to explore on ethnics, in Chinese, Japanese, African and Moroccan cultures. Their perceptions on these cultures are getting more mature and somehow, giving us justice. Big Brands such as Christian Dior, Givenchy, Valentino also proves us that creativity and inspiration never dies by their extravagance designs, questioning the definition of fashion at all times.

Despite all the thrills from all details, here are ten of my favourite couture pieces from the 2019 couture runway.


GUO PEI

可曾想過添.伯頓鏡頭底下的瑪麗.安東妮是怎樣的呢?
幽靈孖女走過通往異世的T台,同時為大家帶來Guo Pei 秋季2019 haute couture 吸睛鉅作 !

Marie Antoinette through a Tim Burton lens?
Guo Pei Fall 2019 Couture with this showstopping piece.
Two ghostly twins walking down the runway of the afterlife!


RONALD VAN DER KEMP


Ronald Van Der Kemp ,我們時裝界可持續發展與資源再利用的皇者展示了王道的洋蔥式配搭方式。
布料、花樣圖案的極致沖極與矚目大帽形成絕妙的平衡。

Ronald Van Der Kemp, our king of sustainability and re-purpose shows us how layering should be done. Textile and pattern clash at the highest level of fashion, balancing it all with a majestic hat.


ELLIE SAAB


先別看。
現在 – 狠狠的懷抱你與生俱來的民族色彩,親愛的亞洲同胞們!
Ellie Saab詮釋了如何不顯突兀地穿著得像個古代女王。

Don’t look now. Embrace your ethnicity fellow Asians! Elie Saab shows us that it’s not hard to dress like an Ancient emperor.

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現實世界變得如此奇怪,那倒不如來點不現實的奇怪吧!不同膚色,髮色,髮型的大頭娃娃,配上不同顏色的唇膏。穿上了由MA-1 Bomber Jacket演變出來的各種產品,有上衣、外套或是長裙,有Plain的也有Patchwork pattern的。顏色上還是沿用MA-1的basic colour Olive,Navy和orange,簡單的搭上球鞋或是Dr.Martens。這個女生看起來很貼地,但目瞪口呆的表情又教人心寒。
但放心,大頭娃娃是非賣品。

The real world has become so weird, why not make some unrealistic, and strange things? This is a fantastical riff on the Skinhead uniform. MA-1 jackets, Dr. Martins, and jeans. The voluminous shapes is sooo Victor & Rolf. I like the interpretations in general here. The doll heads…sure why not…What was that Michael Fassbender movie? The street kind of aethetic grounds it for me and makes it all more digestible. This collection also blurs the line between Haute Couture and Pret-A-Porter, to me resting somewhere in the middle where most Victor & Rolf collections have.


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Well it’s the end of an era. Riccardo has moved on from the brand he brought back to life, and infused with a complete new set of DNA. For this, his last season of menswear the silhouette has not changed. Definitely masculine, the advances are in the details. Some zipped collars catch my eye, a stiff, laquered fisherman hat, and zip enclosures to tee’s and blazers alike. No reinvention of the wheel but it’s highly wearable and still a style I dig! The finally of the show also included 13 women’s couture pieces for just random, excess flavor. Wit it!

GIVENCHY_M17_1

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Felt a little out of touch.