FIRST LOOK 2 GALA SHOW : LUKE CHAN

很高興看到我們的香港設計師LUKE CHAN的系列繼續發展和成熟。這是LUKE CHAN第二次在FIRST LOOK 中展示最新系列,繼續從愛德華時代的英國尋找靈感。他的FW18系列使用了非常平坦的色調,在仔細檢查後非常有趣。你可以看到系列都是英國人低調的陰沉灰色,以及令人驚訝的軍事綠色。當中特別欣賞這個季系列中微妙的運動裝主題。加油吧!

Great to see Hong Kong designer Luke Chan’s collection continue to grow and mature. Presenting for the second straight season with FIRST LOOK, Luke continues to find inspiration from Edwardian England. For his FW18 collection, he used a very flat color tone which was very interesting upon closer inspection. British overcast greys made for all over looks, as well a surprising military green that may have almost gone unnoticed by those in attendance. Accessories were also prominent from flat point shoes, to a large brimmed hat for the final exit look. Particularly appreciated the subtle sportswear theme incorporated into this season’s collection. Looks 6 and 8 were the ones for me! Onwards and upwards Luke Chan.

Runway Photos : Falcom Lam, Top Banner Photo : Rick So

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VIKTOR & ROLF FW17 HAUTE COUTURE

現實世界變得如此奇怪,那倒不如來點不現實的奇怪吧!不同膚色,髮色,髮型的大頭娃娃,配上不同顏色的唇膏。穿上了由MA-1 Bomber Jacket演變出來的各種產品,有上衣、外套或是長裙,有Plain的也有Patchwork pattern的。顏色上還是沿用MA-1的basic colour Olive,Navy和orange,簡單的搭上球鞋或是Dr.Martens。這個女生看起來很貼地,但目瞪口呆的表情又教人心寒。
但放心,大頭娃娃是非賣品。

The real world has become so weird, why not make some unrealistic, and strange things? This is a fantastical riff on the Skinhead uniform. MA-1 jackets, Dr. Martins, and jeans. The voluminous shapes is sooo Victor & Rolf. I like the interpretations in general here. The doll heads…sure why not…What was that Michael Fassbender movie? The street kind of aethetic grounds it for me and makes it all more digestible. This collection also blurs the line between Haute Couture and Pret-A-Porter, to me resting somewhere in the middle where most Victor & Rolf collections have.


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毒品/Y3 SWIMWEAR FW17 AD CAMPAIGN

室內草皮咩玩法?一從充滿未來感的Y3今季廣告就在室內的「自然環境」中。近年科技和大自然密不可分,因為大家都意識到大自然的重要性。因此最新的科研都離不開保護環境的目標。我絕對不希望將來這些綠色植物將珍貴得要像博物館展品般,要付費才能看到。

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毒品/ EMANUEL UNGARO SS17 WOMEN’S WEAR

Ruffle,近年最受歡迎和最讓大眾接受的設計。無論是簡約的單層ruffle還是複雜誇張的千層ruffle,全部都是大熱的設計。Emanuel Ungaro的新一個系列,幾乎全部都用上了ruffle這個原素: 黑色的皮革配上絲質ruffle設計,材質的對比使皮革的反叛多了一份穩重;黑白波點的套裝配上Tiffany Blue的ruffle,也讓華麗的外套多了一份青春。除此以外,還有一些花卉圖案的衣服和撞色的設計,又是一種春夏百花齊放的感覺。

攝影 Photo From / Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv
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毒品/ESCADA WOMEN’S FW16

運動的顏色

Escada 有1978年時推出的原意是「運動奢侈品」,但最近T台已經充滿了不同形式的運動時裝。如果你依然熱愛這股運動風,這季Escada對運動的表達絕對值得你關注。
這季Daniel Wingate為Escada推出的系列利用外表高貴奢華的高級時裝,巧妙地暗示運作風格的靈感和色調。紅、藍、黃及明亮的綠色都非常含蓄地表達Wingate對運動風格的了解。
或者如此細微的小節我們未必心領神會,不過Escada的設計以單色為主,剪裁簡單而且多功能,相信無論任何時間場合都能讓你艷壓全場。

攝影/All photos by :Courtesy of Escada
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