十件不是人穿的COUTURE . HUMANLY IMPOSSIBLE COUTURE PIECES. THE BEST OF COUTURE FW19

Written by : Monique Ying @monying_my

2019 couture 的伸展台是一埸狂歡盛宴。經過一系列的研究,我發現了一個很有趣的現象 – 現時很多設計師(e.g. Elie Saab) 開始探索世界各文族的文化,有中國的、日本的、非洲文族的,還有摩洛哥的。 設計師們對這些文化的了解愈來愈成熟,亦為我們正名。 Christian Dior, Givenchy, Valentino等大牌子以它們的超凡作品證明了創意與靈感永遠也不會消逝,同時亦表現了它們將永遠推翻時裝定義的精神。

排除高級定製時裝週的精彩細節,以下是我於2019秋季couture中十件最喜歡的作品。

2019 couture runway truly is a blast. After some decent research, I found that it is interesting a lot of designers such as Elie Saap are trying to explore on ethnics, in Chinese, Japanese, African and Moroccan cultures. Their perceptions on these cultures are getting more mature and somehow, giving us justice. Big Brands such as Christian Dior, Givenchy, Valentino also proves us that creativity and inspiration never dies by their extravagance designs, questioning the definition of fashion at all times.

Despite all the thrills from all details, here are ten of my favourite couture pieces from the 2019 couture runway.


GUO PEI

可曾想過添.伯頓鏡頭底下的瑪麗.安東妮是怎樣的呢?
幽靈孖女走過通往異世的T台,同時為大家帶來Guo Pei 秋季2019 haute couture 吸睛鉅作 !

Marie Antoinette through a Tim Burton lens?
Guo Pei Fall 2019 Couture with this showstopping piece.
Two ghostly twins walking down the runway of the afterlife!


RONALD VAN DER KEMP


Ronald Van Der Kemp ,我們時裝界可持續發展與資源再利用的皇者展示了王道的洋蔥式配搭方式。
布料、花樣圖案的極致沖極與矚目大帽形成絕妙的平衡。

Ronald Van Der Kemp, our king of sustainability and re-purpose shows us how layering should be done. Textile and pattern clash at the highest level of fashion, balancing it all with a majestic hat.


ELLIE SAAB


先別看。
現在 – 狠狠的懷抱你與生俱來的民族色彩,親愛的亞洲同胞們!
Ellie Saab詮釋了如何不顯突兀地穿著得像個古代女王。

Don’t look now. Embrace your ethnicity fellow Asians! Elie Saab shows us that it’s not hard to dress like an Ancient emperor.

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SCHIAPARELLI SS19 HAUTE COUTURE

Schiaparelli’s Spring 2019 Couture collection was filled with lively colors, flowers, star references, cowboy boots and more. All of these factors combined to give the collection a certain sense of playfulness while at the same time cherishing elegance and individuality. It screams “STAY YOUNG AT HEART” to its audience and we love it that way. Kudos to Bertrand Guyon ( The Schiaparelli Design Director) for drawing inspiration from the OG herself Ms. Elsa Schiaparelli!

VIEW MORE OF THE FUNK HERE :
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毒品/FALL 2015 COUTURE HIGHLIGHTS

This season’s couture was like the planets had aligned. Most collections were good and more than a few were exceptional! Here are our highlights for your viewing pleasure in alphabetical order not by rank. For reals it gets better the deeper you go!

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Alberta Ferretti Couture Fall 2015

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Alexandre Vauthier Couture Fall 2015

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Alexis Mabille Couture Fall 2015

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Armani Prive Couture Fall 2015

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毒品/FW2014 高级定制回顾/FW2014 COUTURE REVIEW

值得庆幸的是FW2014高级定制还算短暂。参与的品牌设计范围从巧思概念,到随机甚至丑陋。总体而言,令人大失所望。大多数品牌看起来或是平白无趣,或是半生不熟。同时,我们也注意到了最近许多日装/运动装的蠕变,令成衣收藏和高级女装之间的界限开始变得模糊。最值得瞩目的大约是 Victor & Rolf所打造的“穿着红毯”, Giambattista Valli也不错,而时装新手Hussein Chalayan则与Vionnet时装屋携手,杀出自己的一条血路。许多品牌的系列单品都超过50件以上,无意不在各位脑子画下一个巨大的问好,这有必要吗?以下是我们按字母顺序排列的视觉回顾。嗨呀!

Thankfully FW2014 Couture was brief. Of the brands that participated, the designs ranged from cleverly conceptual, to random and hideous. Overall a big disappointment. Most labels looked uninspired or half-cooked. We’ve also noticed a lot of daywear/sportswear creep in lately which is beginning to blur the lines between ready-to-wear collections and haute couture. A tip of the hat goes to Victor & Rolf for their cheeky execution of ‘wearing a red carpet’, Giambattista Valli did something, and Hussein Chalayan, couture newbie, popped his cherry with Vionnet. A lot of brands came with well over 50 pieces per collection, also composing the question in one’s mind, is it needed? See our visual review in alphabetical order below. Hiyah!

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Alexis Mabille Couture FW14

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Armani Prive Couture FW14

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Atelier Versace Couture FW14

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Chanel Couture FW14

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Christian Dior Couture FW14

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Elie Saab Couture FW14

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Giambattista Valli Couture FW14

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Maison Martin Margiela Couture FW14

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