毒品/ JACQUEMUS WOMEN’S SS17

Jacquemus今季的感覺就像生活在法國南部,迷人明亮的陽光,生活平靜休閒,簡單而且樸素。這一季依然繼續見到他的特色: 大圓鈕扣和幾何鞋跟。但更多的是如Vetements的大肩膀設計!基本上貫穿了整個系列。和Vetements大不同的是,Jacquemus的感覺是憂鬱的、浪漫的。白色Laca的誇張肩膀西裝、麻質修腰的寬鬆西裝都是例子之一。

攝影 Photo From / Kim Weston Arnold / Indigital.tv and WGSN
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毒品/ACNE STUDIOS WOMEN’S FW2016

Damn! It’s like ACNE knows we are trying to find a season to hate on. These cats can’t do no wrong! This hit parade, season for season has got to stop. Still no chink in the armor yet! We are even having a problem pairing down this collection to a ‘reasonable’ 10 looks to show. Some abbreviated edit. Salute! May as well remain standing. Jonny Johansson spliced some 80’s punk attitude with Glam’s gender bending ways to come up with this banga. Love the wire boob restraint and the contrast between the ‘heavy’ loose silhouettes with the loose draping, body conscious knits.

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閒聊/IN DIRECT CONVERSATION. LINDA FARROW, BEIJING CHINA IN THE 80’S.

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Special Thanks : Ms. Brae Ho, Puyi Optical
Photo : Nick D for precursorprints.com

Simon Jablon – 事实上,北京也是我刚去的前一两年时间才开放起来。我去的时候,麦当劳刚刚开张,是全中国第一间麦当劳。在当时那可是头号新闻。还有友谊商场!你听说过友谊商场吗?一座很老的百货公司,它们有自己的产品线。我的朋友长着一头金发,所以大家都来摸摸他的头发说是可以交好运!这对我来说挺新鲜的!我们去中国的时候还那么小!除了去中国的中国生意人外可能还没有外国小孩去呢。所以看到两个外国小孩对他们来说是很新奇的。这也是很有趣的经验,我很怀念。那是非常真实的中国,自行车随处可见,每个人都骑。整条街边都是自行车停放区…

SPITGAN – What do you remember about it (Beijing)?

Simon Jablon – Well actually the curtain (had) just raised just one or two years before I went there. They just opened McDonald’s when I was there. The first McDonald’s in China. I remember that was big news. The friendship store! You heard about the friendship store? It was like an old department store. They had their own products and things like that. My friend he was blonde, so everyone would come up to him and touch his hair for good luck! It was new! The fact that we were so young! It was like (we were) the first people they saw coming into China that weren’t the middle aged business men. So to see 2 kids turn up was novel to them. It was an experience. Fun. I really liked it. It was more real China. There were bicycles everywhere. Everywhere. There were parking areas of just bicycles, streets long…