SPITGAN MAGAZINE: SPITTING MAD FIRE
大概走紅的人自已總是那麼意想不到。張正陽，一個剛陽味極重的中國名字現在正是這個時尚圈子內最火紅的關鍵字。高顴骨、長鳳眼，帶著濃郁的神秘東方美，22歲來自北京的張正陽只出現了一段時間就完全地吸引了Steven Meisel的注意。他的入行經歷可算有趣，當時還是學生的他多次拒絕經紀公司的邀請，極其量也只擔任兼職，到畢業後在猶豫自已的前途時才想到可以當個模特呢！不過他現在也還沒當自已是全職模特呢，他說模特不是我的唯一職業，其實我還是一個專業舞者。他在北京舞蹈學院，主修中國民族及民間舞蹈，充滿張力美的肢體語言，以及超強的柔韌性不止讓他在班上成績名列前茅，這種剛好的張力更深深地吸引著這世上的每一對眼睛。他和Steven Meisel一套雌雄同體的拍攝更加震撼地讓每個人都感受到一種難以用言語解釋的、神秘的曖昧和性感。畢竟在天橋上張正陽還是一個很新的名字，不過這麼強烈的風格和個性大概不會讓我們忘記了吧。
孫小峰原本是一個平面設計師，成立品牌，除了是不習慣刻板的工作，也是因為對時裝的熱情。這種由零到倫敦走秀的故事實在勵志！我想就是這股熱血讓他往往能在傳統的造型上找到能夠創新的地方吧！例如今季一件純白色的西裝外套，罕有地在手臂和腰部位置加上褶位。這種通常出現在女裝的小細節可用作於修腰之用，而在男裝西裝出現時，更有多一個裝飾的用途。另外我有留意到一件皮衣外套沒有用上傳統的皮衣領口，反而用上西裝領口，這樣皮褸造型不會太過Punk，反而多一份成熟穩重的感覺。另外他還有兩件印上北京字眼的T-shirt，在這個世代做時裝，一件百搭的T-shirt可以直接成為王牌產品，比起做10套西裝成本效益更要好。這個設計也是一個明智之舉。
攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of Sean Suen
撰文 Article/ Jose chu
Oversize 最吸引人的地方就是無論任何身材都著得入。但現實始終殘酷，過份寬鬆的衣服只會讓體型較大的人看起來更擁腫。所以我很喜歡oversize，但我卻不能駕御他。
北京品牌Xander Zhou的設計也不乏寬鬆的作品，而且他沒有很強調的性別定位，無論男女都很適合。今季ss17最難忘的肯定是那故意加長的手袖和放得入兩個model的「肥佬褲」！老實說這條褲子很有創意，直接將大得穿不下的褲子放在腰上，和內褲的拼接，就像有些男性外露內褲那種穿法的另一種演繹！整個系列還有一股強烈的隨意感，例如藍色PU背心外套又突然有一隻手袖走出來、捲起紙幣的耳環、寬鬆的恤衫加一件背心！十分隨意舒服卻不隨便，是一個充滿幽默感的品牌！
攝影 Photo From / Courtesy of XANDER ZHOU
撰文 Article From / Jose Chu
So it came to our attention recently that Dolce & Gabbana’s Instagram had caused a furor. We were rather confused as D&G’s Insta is one of the best going for a fashion brand and in general nowadays! They are using their weight to do something truly inspiring. Travelling the world shooting their clothes and spreading images of positive smiles, and heaps of La Dolce Vita! Their use of real environments and the people that inhabit them are truly vital in this photoshop’ed and manufactured landscape. What was the cause of all the clamor you ask? Well they took this approach to Beijing and netizens in China went bananas over their choice of locations and people. D&G were criticized for showing the ‘ugly’ side of China. The only ugly side that came out of this was the ugly attitude that spilled all over the ‘net. For those that have never been to China. China looks like this. You will see these people, these places where ever you go. And look at these images! All subjects look happy to be in them! Genuine smiles and interaction all around! We were surprised to see that D&G still left the images on their Instagram as we had heard unsubstantiated information that they were forced to pull them from Weibo and Mainland social media accounts. Truly a sad day and a backwards step for China. If ya don’t want people to be shooting this then well don’t be having this. These are Chinese folk! No everyone ain’t a 10 and that’s alright! Get grown mofos! Salute to the Morelli Brothers who shot this set of images and Dolce & Gabbana for being a leader!
Special Thanks : Ms. Brae Ho, Puyi Optical
Photo : Nick D for precursorprints.com
Simon Jablon – 事实上,北京也是我刚去的前一两年时间才开放起来。我去的时候,麦当劳刚刚开张,是全中国第一间麦当劳。在当时那可是头号新闻。还有友谊商场!你听说过友谊商场吗?一座很老的百货公司,它们有自己的产品线。我的朋友长着一头金发,所以大家都来摸摸他的头发说是可以交好运!这对我来说挺新鲜的!我们去中国的时候还那么小!除了去中国的中国生意人外可能还没有外国小孩去呢。所以看到两个外国小孩对他们来说是很新奇的。这也是很有趣的经验,我很怀念。那是非常真实的中国,自行车随处可见,每个人都骑。整条街边都是自行车停放区…
SPITGAN – What do you remember about it (Beijing)?
Simon Jablon – Well actually the curtain (had) just raised just one or two years before I went there. They just opened McDonald’s when I was there. The first McDonald’s in China. I remember that was big news. The friendship store! You heard about the friendship store? It was like an old department store. They had their own products and things like that. My friend he was blonde, so everyone would come up to him and touch his hair for good luck! It was new! The fact that we were so young! It was like (we were) the first people they saw coming into China that weren’t the middle aged business men. So to see 2 kids turn up was novel to them. It was an experience. Fun. I really liked it. It was more real China. There were bicycles everywhere. Everywhere. There were parking areas of just bicycles, streets long…
