真/CURIOSO : HUAWEI

中国华为公司今日 “引进一个运作系统,由三个老板轮流出任CEO,每次任期为半年。”

China company, Huawei recently, ‘introduced a system in which three of its bosses take turns, six months at a time, at being the chief executive.’

– 经济学家/The Economist

毒品/CHOCOOLATE FW2014 AD CAMPAIGN

IT公司旗下品牌CHOCOOLATE最受瞩目的部分之一,恕我的愚见,是他们的广告宣传。利用光滑图像的从众心理而大胆地选择使用动画/插图,本季CHOCOOLATE力邀TheBruce Wayne超人成为了系列封面。为什么Bruce Wayne会接受这份邀请?虚荣?因为显然,经济不列入考虑范围。不管怎样吧!一位诚实的超级英雄在任何时候都不亚于超模的影响力。

One of the best things about I.T.’s in-house brand, Chocoolate, in our humble opinion, has always been the advertising campaigns. Bravely choosing to use animation/illustration over the herd mentality of slick images, this season Chocoolate has invited THE Bruce Wayne to be the face of the collection. Why would Bruce want to do it? Vanity? Clearly money wasn’t an issue. Anyways kudos! A bonafide superhero trumps a supermodel any day.

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放音樂/MUSIC IS PLAYING. SEAN HOCKING, METAL POSTCARD RECORDS.

香港金属明信片唱片公司(Metal Postcard Records)创始人兼所有人Sean Hocking在半个世纪前出生在澳大利亚。他的青葱岁月是在金属乐队和斯卡音乐浸泡的西印度群岛度过的。七十年代初,迁居至英国,最初的音乐记忆之一是Roxy Music 在“Top of the Pops”节目上所演奏的Virginia Plain,接着是 Marc Bloan的T-REX,还有David Bowie的Space Oddity,从此他便深陷其中。在12岁时,Sex Pistols, Clash & The Damned通过John Peel的广播节目出现在他卧室的录音机上。十几岁的时候,追随着Siouxisie & the Banshees,the Cure还有全国其它乐队。十几岁时最难忘的演出无疑时Black Flag在英国的首演。在1983年是来到澳大利亚,引荐了了一些包括the Scientists from Perth在内的天才乐团,也成为了Kurt Cobain最大的影响之一……绝对是邋遢摇滚的表率。

Sean Hocking founder and owner of Hong Kong based record label Metal Postcard Records was born half a century ago in Australia. He spent his younger years running around barefoot in the West Indies soaking up steel bands & ska music. Moving to the UK in the early seventies, one of his first musical memories was seeing Roxy Music playing Virginia Plain on the ‘Top Of The Pops’ show, then Marc Bloan’s T-Rex, and David Bowie’s Space Oddity. He was hooked. At the age of 12 the Sex Pistols, Clash & The Damned came into his living room and onto his record player via the genius of John Peel’s radio show. Teenage times involved following Siouxsie and the Banshees, the Cure and other bands around the country. Greatest teenage gig moment was without doubt seeing Black Flag play their first ever UK gig. A visit to Australia in 1983, introduced incredible bands including the Scientists from Perth, who later went on to become one of Kurt Cobain’s main influences…definitely the grungiest band ever. Pt.1.

请欣赏Sean的Ring of Fire广播秀//英国蒲公英广播/Check out Sean’s Ring of Fire Radio Show//Dandelion Radio UK – http://www.dandelionradio.com/sean.htm

POW – Switchboard Scientist

POW是以电子朋克出道的旧金山新乐队,隶属John Dwyer’s(Thee Oh Sees)同一唱片公司Castle Face Records。他们起源于早起的Mute Records,它也在我的年度最常播放列表上。

POW are a new electronic punk band out of San Francisco on John Dwyer’s ( Thee Oh Sees) label Castle Face Records. They hark back to the early days of mute records and this is my most played track of the year.

毒品/FW2014 高级定制回顾/FW2014 COUTURE REVIEW

值得庆幸的是FW2014高级定制还算短暂。参与的品牌设计范围从巧思概念,到随机甚至丑陋。总体而言,令人大失所望。大多数品牌看起来或是平白无趣,或是半生不熟。同时,我们也注意到了最近许多日装/运动装的蠕变,令成衣收藏和高级女装之间的界限开始变得模糊。最值得瞩目的大约是 Victor & Rolf所打造的“穿着红毯”, Giambattista Valli也不错,而时装新手Hussein Chalayan则与Vionnet时装屋携手,杀出自己的一条血路。许多品牌的系列单品都超过50件以上,无意不在各位脑子画下一个巨大的问好,这有必要吗?以下是我们按字母顺序排列的视觉回顾。嗨呀!

Thankfully FW2014 Couture was brief. Of the brands that participated, the designs ranged from cleverly conceptual, to random and hideous. Overall a big disappointment. Most labels looked uninspired or half-cooked. We’ve also noticed a lot of daywear/sportswear creep in lately which is beginning to blur the lines between ready-to-wear collections and haute couture. A tip of the hat goes to Victor & Rolf for their cheeky execution of ‘wearing a red carpet’, Giambattista Valli did something, and Hussein Chalayan, couture newbie, popped his cherry with Vionnet. A lot of brands came with well over 50 pieces per collection, also composing the question in one’s mind, is it needed? See our visual review in alphabetical order below. Hiyah!

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Alexis Mabille Couture FW14

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Armani Prive Couture FW14

ATELIERVERSACE_FW14COUTURE

Atelier Versace Couture FW14

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Chanel Couture FW14

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Christian Dior Couture FW14

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Elie Saab Couture FW14

GIAMBATTISTAVALLI_FW14COUTURE

Giambattista Valli Couture FW14

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Maison Martin Margiela Couture FW14

SCHIAPARELLI_FW14COUTURE

Read More

毒品/ PATTA X CARHARTT WIP FW2014

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接近季末的时候出现了不少有趣的作品。但说真得,它们来的相当及时,做出来的时候正符合穿着的时节与条件。我说的就是PATTA X CARHARTT WIP。该系列比较保守,并没有新颖的剪裁来推进设计。口号是!哦,哦,哦,打住!有时候许多细节很容易被忽视。终于发现了症结所在! “Wild at Hartt(错拼)’? 靠!这算不算专利呢!看起来任何品牌总监都能够由秀场回归到绘图板上。

Some interesting projects coming out late this season. Really though, they right on time, and ready to be worn in the weather and conditions they were made for. Patta X Carhartt WIP here. The collection is capsule, and there really are no new silhouettes that push the design forward. The slogan though! Oh oh oh, pause! Sometimes stuff just gets overlooked. That’s the lic right there! ‘Wild at Hartt’?! Dammmn! Patent that ish! Get you some! Kudo’s! Any brand manager can pick there dentals up off the floor and go back to the drawing board.

在亚洲各地I.T.专卖店有售。Available at I.T. stores across Asia.