十件不是人穿的COUTURE . HUMANLY IMPOSSIBLE COUTURE PIECES. THE BEST OF COUTURE FW19

Written by : Monique Ying @monying_my

2019 couture 的伸展台是一埸狂歡盛宴。經過一系列的研究,我發現了一個很有趣的現象 – 現時很多設計師(e.g. Elie Saab) 開始探索世界各文族的文化,有中國的、日本的、非洲文族的,還有摩洛哥的。 設計師們對這些文化的了解愈來愈成熟,亦為我們正名。 Christian Dior, Givenchy, Valentino等大牌子以它們的超凡作品證明了創意與靈感永遠也不會消逝,同時亦表現了它們將永遠推翻時裝定義的精神。

排除高級定製時裝週的精彩細節,以下是我於2019秋季couture中十件最喜歡的作品。

2019 couture runway truly is a blast. After some decent research, I found that it is interesting a lot of designers such as Elie Saap are trying to explore on ethnics, in Chinese, Japanese, African and Moroccan cultures. Their perceptions on these cultures are getting more mature and somehow, giving us justice. Big Brands such as Christian Dior, Givenchy, Valentino also proves us that creativity and inspiration never dies by their extravagance designs, questioning the definition of fashion at all times.

Despite all the thrills from all details, here are ten of my favourite couture pieces from the 2019 couture runway.


GUO PEI

可曾想過添.伯頓鏡頭底下的瑪麗.安東妮是怎樣的呢?
幽靈孖女走過通往異世的T台,同時為大家帶來Guo Pei 秋季2019 haute couture 吸睛鉅作 !

Marie Antoinette through a Tim Burton lens?
Guo Pei Fall 2019 Couture with this showstopping piece.
Two ghostly twins walking down the runway of the afterlife!


RONALD VAN DER KEMP


Ronald Van Der Kemp ,我們時裝界可持續發展與資源再利用的皇者展示了王道的洋蔥式配搭方式。
布料、花樣圖案的極致沖極與矚目大帽形成絕妙的平衡。

Ronald Van Der Kemp, our king of sustainability and re-purpose shows us how layering should be done. Textile and pattern clash at the highest level of fashion, balancing it all with a majestic hat.


ELLIE SAAB


先別看。
現在 – 狠狠的懷抱你與生俱來的民族色彩,親愛的亞洲同胞們!
Ellie Saab詮釋了如何不顯突兀地穿著得像個古代女王。

Don’t look now. Embrace your ethnicity fellow Asians! Elie Saab shows us that it’s not hard to dress like an Ancient emperor.

CLICK ON THE LINK BELOW TO CONTINUE THE ARTICLE :

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SPITGAN TV. SLANG DICTIONARY : 符碌

俚語門學校/SLANG TONGUE. A SLANG DICTIONARY is where we gonna share with you different phrases and word stylings so you know what’s up! Our second episode shares with you the Cantonese Slang, “符碌”. Cantonese is a rich and versatile language, know you some!

Data Writing : Lorien Chan

Video here :

SPITGAN TV. SLANG DICTIONARY : 搽鞋

俚語門學校/SLANG TONGUE. A SLANG DICTIONARY is where we gonna share with you different phrases and word stylings so you know what’s up! Our debut episode shares with you the Cantonese Slang, “搽鞋”. Cantonese is a rich and versatile language, know you some!

Data Writing : Lorien Chan

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Sd8U-vk90k

SOUNDWAVES. HERMETIC DIODE 2 PERFORMANCE AT SOUND FORMS 2019 HONG KONG



Photos of Hermetic Diode V2 performance by : Jesse Clockwork @jesseclockwork // Portrait of Sudhee Liao by : photographybyrenata.com

From some stunning visuals that blew up my Facebook news feed, I realized that SPITGAN friend, choreographer Sudhee Liao, had just released another piece of her work to the public. The visuals, as you see in this story by photographer Jesse Clockwork, peeked my curiosity as to what Version 2 of Hermetic Diode was about. What this Hong Kong festival, Sound Forms 2019 was about. SPITGAN digs the music here and were mighty hungry for some answers! Not only were we able to speak to Sudhee to give us some insights but the curator of Sound Forms 2019, Remy Siu, was kind enough to give us a rundown. How is ‘perform*ing*’ arts doing in Hong Kong? Well why not speak to those living and breathing it.

SPITGAN : Tell us about Hermetic Diode V2? The title sounds heady.
SUDHEE LIAO : Hermetic Diode is a collaborative effort between Sudhee Liao and Andrew Luk, exploring notions regarding the performed space. In doing so, the piece plays with elements of proximity and intimacy between performers and audience.

SG : Was there a version 1?
SL : Yes. The version 1 was shown in Hong Kong Arts Festival 2018 as part of Hong Kong Jockey Club Contemporary Dance Series.

SG : What is the difference between the 2? Will there be more? A series?
SL : Hermetic Diode V2 was performed in Sound Forms 2019 – A Festival of Multichannel. I worked closely with my sound designer, Fung Chin Lung to create a multi channel sound installation within the space. The amplified sound added an underlying layer to the piece and I really liked how multichannel work can expand a whole new dimension and possibilities of the work within the space.


THE INTERVIEW CONTINUES BELOW AS WITH MORE STUNNING IMAGES FROM THE PERFORMANCE OF HERMETIC DIODE 2 :

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大智若愚/HIDDEN IN PLAIN SIGHT. ARTIST/PROFESSOR CHENG YIN CHEONG


Left/左 : Professor Cheng Yin Cheong wears blazer by COS, white shirt his own. 鄭教授穿上COS 西裝,自已的白恤衫。 // Right/右 : He wears sweater and jeans by Sandro Homme, white shirt his own. 衛衣和牛仔褲 Sandro Homme,自已的白恤衫。
Artwork :  時空挪移【2】- 山居 【1978/2014】// Space-Time Transforming 【2】- Living in Mountain 2【1978/2014】

攝影及訪問 / Photos and Interview : Nick D for @precursorprints
中文撰文 / Chinese Translation : Lorien Chan
造型 / Stylee : 2 Dirty Guys for @precursorprints
攝影助手 / Photo Assist : Ric So

A day wandering aimlessly through Jordan, Kowloon saw me venture into the Commercial Press bookstore there and it’s Chinese art section. Thumbing through a few tomes, the artwork of professor Cheng Yin Cheong blew me away, and utterly changed the pace of my day. It’s contents, encompassing a lifetime of his watercolour paintings were stylish, vibrant, and thoroughly modern. Curious as to who’s work this was, it was a pleasant surprise to discover that Prof. Cheng Yin Cheong was from Hong Kong! His academic credentials were unparalleled. Having a doctorate from Harvard University even! I set out to get his story, as to why such a talent would be so low profile here in Hong Kong, and I am more than happy to share this interview with you.

你相信緣份嗎?有天我漫無目的地在佐敦亂逛,不知為什麼的就走進了一家書店,又不知怎樣的走到了中國藝術的書架前面。這種精神狀態,我根本就沒有心機看書架上任何一本書籍,不過是打發一下時間。突然之間一本畫冊吸引著我的目光,冊上色彩斑斓的水彩畫充滿活力、富現代感和又時尚,整個人頓時豁然開朗。我對這個畫家的工作十分好奇,仔細地看看到底是出自那位名家大師,才發現是來自香港的一個學者,鄭燕祥教授的作品。他的學歷背景十分厲害,哈佛畢業的鄭教授是個教育工作者、也是個推動中國文化藝術的先驅。為什麼這樣了不起的人材如此低調?於是我鼓起勇氣致電他相約了一次訪談的機會,這奇怪的經歷除了用緣份去形容,我也想不到別的形容了。

< <中文譯本在英文之後 >>

SPITGAN : Hello Prof. Cheng, thank you for letting us interview you. Can you introduce to us your background in art?
PROF. CHENG YIN CHEONG : I enjoy art and its creation very much. Unfortunately I do not have any formal training and qualification in art even though I hold a doctoral degree from Harvard University.

My interest in art started at the end of the 1960s when I was a physics student at The Chinese University of Hong Kong. After graduation in 1971, I began my career as a physics teacher as well as my long journey as an amateur painter. From 1985 to 2014, I was invited to hold six personal art exhibitions with the support of various cultural and art organizations. I was also invited by the Hong Kong Museum of Art to conduct special public lectures on the artwork of famous Hong Kong artists including Mr Gaylord Chan, Mr Hon Chi-fun, and Mr Ha Bik-chuen.

SG : You chose painting as your medium of expression over others, and watercolors in particular. Why?
CYC : In the beginning, I was very impressed by large sculptures. I planned to pursue sculpture but was unable to master the sophisticated techniques. In comparison, painting with watercolors was much easier, particularly for the beginners.

To me, medium is important, but more important is the creative ideas I express.

Finally, I chose and fell in love with watercolors, with which I could integrate the strengths of Western watercolor painting and Chinese ink painting to create my own painting style. The flow of watercolors on wet paper can create a lot of unexpected visual effects, it all depends on your imagination.

Watercolor painting becomes an exploration in which you may not know the outcome until completion of the painting. I believe I was very lucky to have chosen watercolors as my major art tool.


Artwork : 時空挪移【13】- 圍牆外【1975/2016】// Space-Time Transforming【13】- Beyond the Wall【1975/2016】

SG : What draws you to landscapes? It is clearly your favorite subject to paint.
CYC : A very good question. To some extent, its answer relates to my cultural root or philosophical view. In Asian or Chinese traditions, great artists often respect nature, the universe, and “Dao” (道) very much. In particular, they try to integrate their personal feelings, perceptions and emotions implicitly with the natural landscapes they paint. Accordingly, the expression of landscapes may represent the artists’ styles and views about themselves.

To me, I would like to say that the mountains, trees, and landscapes I painted are my mountains, my trees and my landscapes because they represent the personal ways or views of my life.

Another technical answer to your question. There are unlimited possibilities and approaches that can be adopted to express different aspects of landscapes. It means that it will be much easier and freer for me to paint landscapes than other subjects because their possible images (in terms of shape, content and color) are unlimited.

CONTINUE READING THE INTERVIEW AND SEE MORE OF PROF. CHENG YIN CHEONG’S WORK :

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