FIRST LOOK 2 : NOWHERELSE

可能你看不出來,這次FIRST LOOK 2 GALA SHOW有幾個剛起步的品牌,NOWHERELSE便是其中一個香港男裝品牌。一個緊湊而簡潔的系列,這個FW18的色調是偏暗的,其中包括運動裝飾品。這是一個易於配搭又不失風格的系列。如果你有時間應該要看看他們的內容!

Yes NOWHERELSE! Finally a true menswear brand to grace our catwalk and fashion event! NOWHERELSE is a brand in it’s nascence, but with no lack of vision or creative direction. A tight, concise collection was presented at the FIRST LOOK 2 Gala Show comprising of sportswear staples with twists to be found in the details. The palette was predominantly dark but sure acceptable for a FW18 collection. We particularly liked the vest combo and the closing look of the presentation, the nylon grey top. The pieces are ideal for mixing and matching, perfect for any modern wardrobe. A highly wearable collection of cool we think highly of! Salute!

Runway Photos : Falcon Lam / Top Banner : Rick So

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FIRST LOOK 2 : BESTAFTER

這是另一個在FIRST LOOK 2 GALA SHOW 展示的新香港品牌BESTAFTER. 這品牌的中文名字是「此日期後最佳」,可能是在說你得到一件BESTAFTER之後便會有最佳的未來?哈哈我也不亂加解說了,不過BESTAFTER對香港的解讀卻十分值得我們所賞和留意,他這一季 “ss18 戊戌春夏 – mister softee 富豪雪糕” 直接扣著你和富豪雪糕之間的回憶。那吃完一定要去廁所「休息」的富豪雪糕。當由香港紙藝設計師STICKLINE製作的門打開後,8個模特按排位同一時間走出台上,可是大家的眼睛忙碌得很。看著不知情的觀眾們瘋狂的拍攝著,我們的陰謀可算是實現了。其實BESTAFTER主要設計T-shirts和首飾,不過他們將有更多的服裝推出。不得不佩服這個由一支2人組成的團隊領導起步不久已經有了強大的追隨者,我們期待在不久的將來能夠看到更多的創意及即將到來的季節作品!

We brought that gang mentality to the catwalk for new brand BESTAFTER. Cue the Revolution Will Not Be Televised by the late great Gil Scott Heron, and the social context to FIRST LOOK 2 came barreling down the runway en masse. Trust upon an unwitting audience, it worked to desired effect. BESTAFTER’s collection was a well curated presentation of their T-shirts, shorts and other found pieces that matched their ethos. A brand on the come-up. This HK brand seems to be headed towards a strong sportswear vision for both men and women. Led by a team of 2 with a clear vision forward and already a strong following, we look forward to seeing more fleshed out ideas from their collection in the near future, and coming seasons!

Runway Photos : Falcon Lam / Top Banner : Rick So

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CHRISTIAN DIOR FW17 WOMENS

Work wear, denim made appearances on the runway for Christian Dior this fall, and everything was blue. A beautiful collection regardless after a rocky start, excuse me the Pre-Fall I think was also goodto. Some amazing dresses here as well, but Maria Grazia Chiuri is trying to speak to the youts now. I thought there was a young Dior? Ms. Dior? Hazy today. I do like things like the first outfit which looks very chic and Pret-A-Porter. Of importance Maria still keeps the dresses ultra-feminine and beautiful to appreciate. The engine is revving…

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KA WA KEY LABELHOOD SHANGHAI PRESENTATION PT2

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All photos including Top Banner by : Nick D for precursorprints.com

See PT. 1 HERE. < < English continues below after the Chinese >>

粉末代表什麼?
粉末代表了自由,某種形式的噴發,甚至可能是性高潮,以及那種驚人的感覺。 當慾望帶走我們時,感覺很好,對嗎? 在那些時刻,我們想要感慨一下。 粉末也是非常直觀的元素,在照明和皮膚上看起來很好,並且使皮膚變得“髒”,當我們屈服於我們的慾望時,特別是當它們超出規範時,我們常常感覺有點“髒” ,因為那是我們不應該想要的東西。

你們在那裡找到你們的模特兒?是否最終由Labelhood提供?
我們做了street casting。我們問了朋友,什至朋友的朋友成為我們的模特兒。有此模特兒的聯絡資料是由Labelhood提供的。我們希望有不同的人混合成為我們的模特兒,一個很巨大的圈子。我們十分滿意他們的表現,不止他們的表演、動作。我知道有些模特兒是很嚴格的。例如,有一個模特兒在排練是前分鐘就到達了。他做了很棒的工作,而且繼續觀察和適應。

我們喜歡在工作中有一定的脆弱性。這些東西不是排練得很好,但保持了一些興奮,並推動每個人都盡力而為。 它顯示了一個真正的原始性。 每個人都投入到表演中,我們有非常好的團隊合作。 非常感謝我們前任實習生Jenny,我們今次的助理導演,而且幫我們完成了所有的翻譯。

你喜歡更多的概念表演多於傳統的時裝表演?
對於我們的品牌來說,展示我們作品的概念性表演更具有相關性,因為我們能夠展示系列的想法,並通過我們的表演來講述故事。 我們要講故事和敘述,因為它們是我們工作的重要組成部分。 受眾看到的是一個怎樣的故事。 我們希望每個人都帶上一個最適合他們的故事。

What did the powder represent?
The powder represented freedom, certain kind of eruption, maybe even orgasm, and the amazing feeling after that. When desires take us over, it feels good, right? In those moments we want to feast with the feeling. The powder is also very visual element, it looks good with the lighting and on the skin and makes skin “dirty”, like very often we feel a bit “dirty” when we give in to our desires, especially when they are out of norms, when they are something we are not supposed to want.

Where did you cast your models from? Were they provided by Labelhood in the end?
We did street casting. We asked friends, and friends of friends to model for us. Some of the model contacts were provided by Labelhood. We wanted to have a mixture of models, some with a performing background, which was a massive, massive plus. We are super happy with how all the models performed, not just modeled, performed. We know what we had our models do was quite demanding. For example, one of our models arrived just minutes before our first, and only rehearsal. He did amazing job and nailed it; adapted and observed. We like to have a certain fragileness in our work, something that is not too rehearsed, and polished. This keeps up the excitement, and pushes everyone to do their best. It shows a real rawness. Everyone threw themselves into the performance, we had very good team to work with. A massive thank you belongs to our amazing former intern, Zuoran Li (Jenny), who worked as an assistant director, and did all the translations, and everything with us.

Do you prefer more conceptual presentations vs traditional runway shows?
For our label, a conceptual way of showing our work is more relevant as we are able to showcase the idea of the collection and tell the story through our presentation. We want to tell stories and narratives, as they are an important part of our work. It’s up to the audience what kind of a story they see. We wish everyone to take with them a story, which suits them the best.

Stay tuned for our full interview with KA WA KEY coming soon!
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KA WA KEY LABELHOOD SHANGHAI PRESENTATION PT1

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All photos including Top Banner by : Nick D for precursorprints.com

One of the best presentations we were able to catch at Labelhood Shanghai SS18 was put on by our friends Ka Wa Key. We asked Jarno, one half the dynamic duo to explain what we saw and photographed for you. Check it out. Part 1 of 2. < < English continued after Chinese >>

在上海SS18 時裝週,其中一個在Labelhood 最好的表演是我們的朋友 Ka Wa Key展示的。Jarno,其中一個設計師為我們解釋一下你將看到的照片!PART 1 & 2! Gogogo!

可以介紹你在Labelhood那場表演的概念吧?
那個是啟發自皇家芭蕾舞團「變形記」的啟發。我們在Labelhood的表演中展示了一個變形,回應他隱藏的秘密、慾望和執著。 這是一個夢,有些浪漫,甚至關於性,但同時我們有點搞砸了。 這是我們想做的事,卻不一定有勇氣去完成。 表演是關於蜕變和變化。 我們之間所發生的事。 演出混合了動作表演和傳統時裝表演, 很大程度上依賴於服裝和模特的動靜。 我們還想在幕後發佈一些通常只在後台發生的事情,例如在觀眾面前換衣服。 在一天結束的時候,這個時裝表演會是很重要的一部分。

在表演中,有一個“男人”,他發現了他的夢想、想像力、頭腦或任何隱藏的慾望。 他一個接一個地揭示了他的慾望。 起初他有些害怕,但之後開始塑造他的慾望,試圖控制、甚至改變他們。 但他無法做到這一點,他的慾望就像現在一樣出現。最終將他們的圍巾和衣服脫掉,做真正的自己。 最後唯一一個保持不變的人是戴著圍巾的“男人”,他害怕向自己洩露自己的慾望。

“擺脫誘惑的唯一方法就是屈服。 抵制它,你的靈魂因為渴望自己所禁止的東西而生病,使渴望它的可怕變得怪異和非法。“ – Oscar Wilde

覆蓋模特兒的面孔,這是你最近的一個不停重複的做法。 它代表什麼?
是的,這是我們近期工作的一部分,也會繼續使用。 面具總是有些神秘的東西。 這也是我們SS18敘述的一部分,以及我們的Labelhood的表演。 在演出中,它只是隱藏角色的真實身份。 唯一沒有揭開他的臉和眼睛的角色就是“男人”。 他也是唯一一個保持不變的人。 最後他是唯一不符合標準的人,仍然留在自己的衣櫃裡。 正如我們所說,眼睛是靈魂之窗。 我們也想把注意力放在服裝和款式的表現和動作上,因為我們的表演主要是基於這樣的。

Can you tell us about the concept for your presentation at Labelhood?
Our presentation was inspired heavily by the Metamorphosis performed by the Royal Ballet. Our presentation at Labelhood showcased a twink’s transformation in response to his hidden secrets, desires and obsessions. It is a dream, something romantic, maybe even a bit sexual, but at the same time something a bit fucked up. It’s something of what we want to be but don’t necessarily have the courage to be. The presentation is about metamorphosis and change. What happens inside us. The presentation was a mixture of movement based performance, and traditional catwalk; heavily based on the movement of the garments and models. We also wanted to unveil something that usually happens behind the scenes, at the backstage, changing the clothes this time in front of the audience. At the end of the day it is such an important part of fashion shows.

In the presentation there is “a guy”, who discovers his hidden desires in his dream, imagination, mind or pretty much where ever. One by one he unveils his desires. At first he is a bit afraid, but eventually begins to mold them, his desires, trying to control, and even change them. He doesn’t manage to do so and his desires come out as they are, eventually removing their scarves and clothes, being exactly what they are. Eventually the only one who stays the same is “the guy”, wearing his scarf, being afraid to reveal his desires to himself.
“The only way to get rid of a temptation is to yield to it. Resist it, and your soul grows sick with longing for the things it has forbidden to itself, with desire for what its monstrous laws have made monstrous and unlawful.” – Oscar Wilde.

The covering of the model’s faces, this is a repeat motif for you recently. What does it represent?
Yes, it’s been part of our work recently, something we like to use every now and then. There is always something mysterious about masks, people covering their faces. It’s also part of the narrative of our SS18 collection as well as our Labelhood presentation. In the presentation it represents simply hiding the character’s true identity. The only character who doesn’t unveil his face and eyes is the “guy”. He is also the only one who stays as he is. Eventually he is the only one who doesn’t fit the norm and still stays in his closet. As we say, eyes are the window to soul. We also wanted to draw the attention to the garments, the performance and movement of the garments and models, as our presentation was heavily based on such.

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