瘋世界中的瘋人物 10位THEi 時裝設計師的狂想設計 NEW DESIGNERS FROM HK SHOW THE FUTURE IS BRIGHT! THEi GRADUATION SHOW. PT1



Photos : Nick D for Precursor Prints
Translation : Lorien Chan

SPITGAN有幸能夠採訪本地時尚人才 Jason Lee 關於他設計的工作絕對是個大開眼界的好機會。從觀賞的角度轉而為新時尚人才的發源,為時尚界帶來不可動搖的人才。在參加THEi畢業生時裝騷看到 Jason 的YMDH回顧展時,發現原來香港的新鮮血液已經嶄露頭角,為所有 Spot light 做好準備。隨著後台的顏色與舉動一一移置至前台成為焦點,今年的設計作品顯然擁立不少資深才掌舵。深刻的個人設計元素,過目驚人的原則展現,另一些則別具大膽的描繪及形態。不論是女裝或男裝同樣令人留下刻骨的印象。

Chinese after english // 中文譯本在英文之後

An eye opener. The opportunity to interview Hong Kong talent Jason Lee about his design work metastasized into an even greater bonanza for discovering new fashion talent. In attendance for the THEi graduate fashion show to check out the Jason’s YMDH retrospective, Hong Kong’s new blood was in the wings and ready for the spotlight. With the backstage color and action crystallizing into focus, this year’s designs crop clearly had some strong talents at the helm. Individual outfits impressed, some with striking restraint, and others with bold statements and form. Equally impressive we’re both womenswear and menswear.

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十件不是人穿的COUTURE . HUMANLY IMPOSSIBLE COUTURE PIECES. THE BEST OF COUTURE FW19

Written by : Monique Ying @monying_my

2019 couture 的伸展台是一埸狂歡盛宴。經過一系列的研究,我發現了一個很有趣的現象 – 現時很多設計師(e.g. Elie Saab) 開始探索世界各文族的文化,有中國的、日本的、非洲文族的,還有摩洛哥的。 設計師們對這些文化的了解愈來愈成熟,亦為我們正名。 Christian Dior, Givenchy, Valentino等大牌子以它們的超凡作品證明了創意與靈感永遠也不會消逝,同時亦表現了它們將永遠推翻時裝定義的精神。

排除高級定製時裝週的精彩細節,以下是我於2019秋季couture中十件最喜歡的作品。

2019 couture runway truly is a blast. After some decent research, I found that it is interesting a lot of designers such as Elie Saap are trying to explore on ethnics, in Chinese, Japanese, African and Moroccan cultures. Their perceptions on these cultures are getting more mature and somehow, giving us justice. Big Brands such as Christian Dior, Givenchy, Valentino also proves us that creativity and inspiration never dies by their extravagance designs, questioning the definition of fashion at all times.

Despite all the thrills from all details, here are ten of my favourite couture pieces from the 2019 couture runway.


GUO PEI

可曾想過添.伯頓鏡頭底下的瑪麗.安東妮是怎樣的呢?
幽靈孖女走過通往異世的T台,同時為大家帶來Guo Pei 秋季2019 haute couture 吸睛鉅作 !

Marie Antoinette through a Tim Burton lens?
Guo Pei Fall 2019 Couture with this showstopping piece.
Two ghostly twins walking down the runway of the afterlife!


RONALD VAN DER KEMP


Ronald Van Der Kemp ,我們時裝界可持續發展與資源再利用的皇者展示了王道的洋蔥式配搭方式。
布料、花樣圖案的極致沖極與矚目大帽形成絕妙的平衡。

Ronald Van Der Kemp, our king of sustainability and re-purpose shows us how layering should be done. Textile and pattern clash at the highest level of fashion, balancing it all with a majestic hat.


ELLIE SAAB


先別看。
現在 – 狠狠的懷抱你與生俱來的民族色彩,親愛的亞洲同胞們!
Ellie Saab詮釋了如何不顯突兀地穿著得像個古代女王。

Don’t look now. Embrace your ethnicity fellow Asians! Elie Saab shows us that it’s not hard to dress like an Ancient emperor.

CLICK ON THE LINK BELOW TO CONTINUE THE ARTICLE :

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SPITGAN獨家: 10大勁YO金曲/AUG2019 TOP10EN. TWO TO THE HEAD EDITION. JORDAN C.

AUGUST TOP 10EN
Two To The Head Edition

Selected by : Jordan C.
Chinese translation : Lorien Chan

抓住今個夏天中旬,我地要透過8月嘅10大勁YO金曲-Two To The Head,向大家介紹一班熱血嘅音樂狂人。你以為全部都係黑人大漢?錯啦!今次終於有熟悉嘅亞洲面孔-NY MC, China Mac。第一次係我地10大勁YO金曲現身,就以氣勢逼人嘅”Gorilla Mac”踩場。。。仲有Buffalo最jeng嘅團隊-Griselda,靠Benny The Butcher打響佢出色嘅 EP, “The Plugs I Met”。呢個榜單有你耳熟能詳嘅Flee Lord, 38 Spesh, Left Lane Didon等,仲有一啲你從未聽過嘅名,好似Jaykin, Dark Lo 同 Black Geez! 信我,我地已經盡力將最震撼嘅作品塞曬入黎,唔信去聽下由英國殺入嘅第一位就知!BOOMSHAKALAKA!

Damn we catchin’ mad bodies in mid-summer with the AUGUST TOP10EN, Two To The Head Edition. Hard bangas abound, and finally a track with a Chinese cat! NY MC, China Mac makes his debut on our TOP10EN reppin’ on a tag team track with Nems! “Gorilla Mac” is not lookin’ for friends truss… Buffalo’s finest crew Griselda is repped by Benny The Butcher with a selection from his standout EP, “The Plugs I Met”, and the chart fills out with street hardened names you will recognize like Flee Lord, 38 Spesh, Left Lane Didon, etc, and some you might not, like Jaykin, Dark Lo and Black Geez! Trust me we couldn’t stuff enough hard spittas in this one for ya, including the revelation of No. 1 from the UK no less! BOOMSHAKALAKA!

108. Juga-Naut x Giallo Point – The Passion

要數英國嘅“大粒嘢”,一定要數Juga-Naut 同 Giallo!”The Passion”正正係講緊佢地對音樂致敬嘅態度同對專業嘅擔當。Juga-Naut 同 Giallo 靠佢地嘅合作專輯 “Back To The Grill Again” 入面一首中毒性極強嘅旋律,成功成為今次榜單嘅第一位,亦係最適合狂loop嘅一首!

Bumblebee Wally clarks, the UK connect drippin’ all up in this bxtch! Speakin on the dedication of the craft and it’s required commitment, “The Passion”. Juga-Naut and Giallo Point take the top spot on our AUG 2019 Top10EN with a melodic groove from their collaborative album, “Back To The Grill Again” rockin’ a slick KRS-ONE loop!

唔好唔記得去Grownuprap.com睇埋Giallo Point係good folks嘅訪問啊!

Also check an interview with Giallo Point from the good folks at Grownuprap.com!

107. Flee Lord x 38 Spesh f/ Termanology – Not For Fashion

邪惡嘅創作- “Not For Fashion”係3個MC 聯手,製作出黎最原始同粗糙嘅版本!令我驚喜嘅仲有呢段副歌,絕對係對手嘅一大威脅!

A nasty nasty cut. “Not For Fashion” sees the 3 Mc’s link up to give you that street shxt raw and uncut! Love me the flavor of this hook too. This is one mean menace!

106. Jaykin f/ Jay Worthy – Monte Carlo (prod. by U-Tern)

溫哥華MC, Jaykin同Jay Worthy拍檔,將paper chase變成史記,呢個最強合體將one-two verse玩到出神入化,根本無得輸!

Vancouver MC, Jaykin links with Jay Worthy to add to the chronicles of the paper chase. This fly ass joint got the collabo rippin’ a fly one-two verse combo for the win!

105. Benny The Butcher f/ India – 5 To 50

Benny The Butcher一直都係我地榜上的常客。知唔知道佢啱啱簽咗Roc Nation?Gat Damn. 佢EP”The Plugs I Met”入面feature India嘅作品-“The Plugs I Met”,係一段令你聽完絕對會上腦嘅逼真旁白!呢首由Alchemist製作嘅催眠曲,慢慢燃燒起各位Bentley riders嘅熱誠!

We’ve been charting the success of Benny The Butcher’s come up for a sec now. Did you see homie sign to Roc Nation? Gat Damn. Lacin’ you with a gritty narrative from his stand out project, “The Plugs I Met” EP, “5-50” features India, and is produced by the Alchemist. A hypnotic, slow burn for ya’ll Bentley riders out there!

CHECK OUT WHO MADE THE FULL TOP10EN BELOW :

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SPITGAN獨家: 10大勁YO金曲/JULY2019 TOP10EN. FLESH OF MY FLESH EDITION. JORDAN C.

Music selection : Jordan C. @jordan_commandeur
Chinese translation : Lorien Chan

炎炎夏日,SPITGAN 為你帶黎最令人鼓舞躁動嘅7月10大Hip Hop  勁YO金曲!主打介紹第二位, Sure Shot Top Dolla嘅 “Muddy Waters” .由Doc Da Mindbenda監製,係一首配合高音調吉他,營造出funk 氣氛嘅作品。 輕快悠閒嘅flow加埋 sing-song 嘅rap style,好似置身黃昏時分漂浮緊嘅船。呢種風格嘅轉變帶比聽眾唔少驚喜, 但仲有更多驚喜隱藏係榜單入面,快啲入黎聽下2019 7月嘅 勁YO金曲榜- Flesh of My Flesh Edition.

We always in here with the flames! July 2019 TOP10EN the most flavorful Hip Hop chart the world over! Wanna put you up on #2 this month, “Muddy Waters” by Sure Shot Top Dolla, produced by Doc Da Mindbenda. It’s a funk groove with a pitched guitar. Straight cruisin’ music, that rides effortlessly. Sure Shot Top Dolla brings that ol’ sing-song flow to it, floatin’ on the beat. Nice to hear him switch the style up on the smooth tip. Make sure you be checking the rest of the heat on this month’s, July 2019 TOP10EN, Flesh of My Flesh Edition, always by Jordan C.

JULY TOP 10EN
Flesh of My Flesh Edition

108. Reckonize Real f/ Jamal Gasol – No Business Like Dope Business

Detroit (Reckonize Real) X Niagara (Jamal Gasol) 呢個組合嘅碰撞,成功創造出榮登今個月榜單第一位,令人狂loop聽唔到嘅作品。值得致敬!
Detroit (Reckonize Real) X Niagara (Jamal Gasol) go to work on this one here over a hynotic loop! #1 on our chart this month, salute!

https://realdeff.com/track/no-business-like-dope-business-feat-jamal-gasol

107. Sure Shot Top Dolla – Muddy Waters (prod. by Doc Da Mindbenda)
睇下引文講咗啲咩先!
See introduction paragraph. BOOM!

106. Rome Streetz f/ al.divino – Rotten.com (prod. by Vinyl Villain & Loman)
緊湊的節奏猶如猛獸破門而入嘅前夕, Rome Streetz 同al.divino嘅最新作品Rotten.com實在係引人入勝。
Rome Streetz and al.divino link up to create a monster on this one. An intense track that don’t let up with production by Vinyl Villain and Loman.

105. YL – Headcrack (prod. by Bori)
細聽YL敘述佢人生嘅軌跡,尋找屬於自己嘅生活態度。
“Hit a buzzer-beater like Derek Fisher.” YL with a day in a life track, over a mellow production by Bori.

104. G4 Jag f/ FastLife – Durban Poison
G4 Jag 嘅低音好jeng? 加埋特別嘅Spartan beat, 係勁jeng 啊!
“Harlem with this passport, turning me Globetrotter.” The bassy flow of G4 Jag rockin’ with fellow NY MC Fastlife on this spartan horny track.

https://g4jag.bandcamp.com/track/durban-poison-ft-fastlife

CONTINUE TO HEAR THE REST OF THE TOP10EN HERE : 

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90後設計師 YMDH李居錡猛烈踫撞的本土文化. HONG KONG DESIGNER BRAND, YMDH, MIXES CHINESE AND WESTERN INFLUENCES FOR THAT STREETWEAR DRIP


採訪/Interview and writing : Lorien Chan
攝影/Photos : Nick D @precursorprints 

深入認識YMDH / Know more about YMDH here :  @ymdhstudio 

We first met Jason at his graduation show for the THEi institute in 2016. I recall on his face a deep disappointment and sadness. What were the emotions running through him at that time? Did something happen backstage? This image of him and his show music will be forever etched in my memory. After the Hong Kong YDC competition that year, Jason started his own label, YMDH. He seemed be well on his way to success with a cross-over shoe and bag collection with Hong Kong retailer I.T. called “I Go To School By Bus”. This project gave him a lot of exposure, and people in the fashion industry, and media took notice of this new fashion designer in Hong Kong. Due to the small nature of the fashion circle in Hong Kong we are fortunate to run into Jason from time to time, always with the intention of doing a formal interview. With an opportunity of a YMDH collective show, it was finally the right time!

第一次見李居錡(Jason Lee)是在Thei的畢業時裝表演舞台上,每個設計師雖然緊張但面上都藏不住內心的興奮。綵排時唯獨Jason一個人滿面愁容,我不知道那是他天然的「壓世樣」還是有什麼事在後台發生了,但這個奇怪的表情加上他選用的音樂讓我忘不了這個設計師。那次之後我一直想跟他做個訪問,解開我心中的迷團。YDC之後他在2018年成立了自家品牌YMDH,並與ITHK合作推出了一個聯乘鞋袋配飾的系列叫 “ I Go To School By Bus ”。這個合作讓他得到了不少的曝光率,令到時裝業界和傳媒認識到這個新晉時裝設計師。相隔幾年之後,這個訪問終於做到了。

< < Chinese continued after English below >>


READ THE FULL ARTICLE ON HONG KONG FASHION TALENT, YMDH CONTINUED HERE :

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